Yes, I'm far behind, and the hate mail has been sent in. Much appreciated.
Belgrade, well, that was slightly special. I can't remember much about it, but mostly because it was quite boring, and their baklava was the pits. We went to a big, but not pretty, fruit market for eggplant, and then we walked around the old fortress. Luckily, the owners of the hostel made us coffee with two pieces of Turkish Delight. I did get to learn a lot about my susceptability to bias, because I couldn't bring myself to like the city or the country as much as I liked Bosnia. The people were still very sweet, exceptionally wonderful actually. But there were bonafide shanty towns, and they needed serious garbage details to clean up their streets.
After that I took a flight to Barcelona via London. My luggage was delayed in transport (of course) and I got lost on the transit system on my way to the hostel (which, by the way, was the fault of the tourist board) but the locals pointed me in the right direction. After getting on the right transit line, I hiked up the hill to the hostel, and hated every moment of not having packed soap or a towel into my carry on so that I could take a shower.
For the next two days, I read a book and partook in hiking the conservation area (my hostel was quite far out of town). I also had a shower when my luggage was delivered less than 24 hours later. I know it's an inconvenience, but the airline did the best they could which was amaing.
After that Bonnie and Erin arrived!! It was all very wonderful, until of course they went to bed to get over the jet lag. And Erin had the plague. We stayed in an apartment on the Ramblas which is a perfect location. The bedrooms were far away from the street side, which still didn't stop the party noise from getting in. Barcelona was incredible, however I think the making point of the city is the Guadi architecture. We went to see the Sagrada Familia, and we walked past a few of his houses. One day we spent picnicking in his elitest park.
I think the best part of Erin and Bonnie arriving was a return to the femininity for me. We bought me a new pair of pants so that I could stop looking like a trail guide, and they let me use their make up. Then Erin donated a few sweaters to my cause. I think the one thing that's been killing me the entierty of this trip has been the lack of feeling like not only an individual, but a woman. So it was simply wonderful to be girly again.
They also spoiled me silly by buying a dinner that included multiple bottles of wine. It was my first hangover since the Polish Vodka incident. I was painfully overdue. It doesn't help that we've not paid more than 2€ for a bottle of wine from the grocery stores. In return I bought crazy good chocolate concocsions from a chocolate artist type store. I feel there should be more chocolate artists, also that chocolate should be calorie free for the benefit of all.
I leave you for now because one of said bottles of wine has been opened and I've been beckoned.
I apologise for my atrocious spelling.
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Friday, November 21, 2008
Sarajevo
I have a feeling that word was used many times in a Cranberries song.
Spencer has qualms with Sarajevo. It was rebuilt in a rather thoughtless way, almost haphazardly. It doesn't allow for efficient transportation, bicyclists and the buildings are clumsy. My argument is that in a nation with very limited funds, the fact that it has been more rebuilt than its counterpart Mostar is a feat in itself. Urban planners are either expensive, or those living in the Eastern Block have many different ideals.
I finished reading a book about woman who lived through the Communist regime, written by a journalist who survived it as well. She was saying they were given very limited supplies, few make up supplies, no provisions for menstruation, and shapeless clothing. So, when they had access to glamour magazines, they thought 'identity' was created through fashion. (If 700 women had the same dress, I'd agree). They would design clothes, or fix clothes to look 'Western' and when the iron curtain came down and they finally did buy clothes, it was with those ideals in mind. So never once did they have a chance to think about how they would want to dress without the communist gender neutral ideal, or the high fashion sex ideal. So they bought things that were exactly like Gucci. I would say the same thing happened when they could finally buy something that was not a Russian car. They all drive expensive cars here that guzzle gas, and it seems cities have been planned around that, not around a public transportation system.
Anyway. I spent the majority of my time in the Turkish quarter buying a few trinkets, spending oodles of money on Turkish Delight. (....about 2 dollars total) and baklava. The turkish delight there was unparalleled. I tried to save some for my sister, but I ate it.
When Spencer and I bought Turkish Delight once, we exited the store and were each separately accosted by a young dirty child demanding either candy or money. I said 'Please, go away' and a man took the child away. But he apparently had attached himself to Spencer who then tried to run away. Oh, it seemed funny, but it's pathetic really.
The other sad part of that trip was seeing all of the dirty, sickly kitties roaming the streets. A peachy one, with squinty infected eyes was cowering painfully over it's liquid bowel movements. I almost vomited. Then I thought of Winston. That turd. Man, am I ever happy he's got a great home, and that when I get home, I get him back.
We paid for a tour run by a young man named Harris. He picked us up in a van, and about 9 of us were taken around the city. He told us about the war, and his experiences growing up in it. He was very passionate about what a war should and shouldn't be. He was about 5, so I'm assuming he never had the chance to start school. Whatever schooling he did have ended at 15 when he opened his own hostel, and now he's running tours as well. He's only 21.
We went to the tunnel museum. The tunnel was used by soldiers and civilians during the siege. It was 800m long and about 5'tall. He took us to the Olympic Bobsled. We were allowed to run on it, but not in the forest behind it. The Serbians used it as a defense shield as they attacked the city. He took us to a traditional Muslim home from the ...17th century, or maybe a bit earlier. The women got shafted that's for sure. But what else is new? He also took us out for Chevapi. It's ground beef seasoned and served in a pita with onions and cream cheese. Another vegetarian and I split it. It was actually really good! That is the reason there are no McDonalds in Bosnia and Herzegovina. We also saw the bridge where Ferdinand was shot on the eve of WWI.
Despite their lack of SPCA, and the fact that I can't go for trail walks in their beautiful forests, Bosnia is an incredible country. It will be amazing once they become less known for their war, and more known for their culture.(Something Harris strongly advocates) It was interesting how many other people's parents were saying ´Be careful in Bosnia' or 'Oh my god, why are you there?' That place felt safer to travel in than, say, Vienna. And they're drinking water was so amazing.
Spencer has qualms with Sarajevo. It was rebuilt in a rather thoughtless way, almost haphazardly. It doesn't allow for efficient transportation, bicyclists and the buildings are clumsy. My argument is that in a nation with very limited funds, the fact that it has been more rebuilt than its counterpart Mostar is a feat in itself. Urban planners are either expensive, or those living in the Eastern Block have many different ideals.
I finished reading a book about woman who lived through the Communist regime, written by a journalist who survived it as well. She was saying they were given very limited supplies, few make up supplies, no provisions for menstruation, and shapeless clothing. So, when they had access to glamour magazines, they thought 'identity' was created through fashion. (If 700 women had the same dress, I'd agree). They would design clothes, or fix clothes to look 'Western' and when the iron curtain came down and they finally did buy clothes, it was with those ideals in mind. So never once did they have a chance to think about how they would want to dress without the communist gender neutral ideal, or the high fashion sex ideal. So they bought things that were exactly like Gucci. I would say the same thing happened when they could finally buy something that was not a Russian car. They all drive expensive cars here that guzzle gas, and it seems cities have been planned around that, not around a public transportation system.
Anyway. I spent the majority of my time in the Turkish quarter buying a few trinkets, spending oodles of money on Turkish Delight. (....about 2 dollars total) and baklava. The turkish delight there was unparalleled. I tried to save some for my sister, but I ate it.
When Spencer and I bought Turkish Delight once, we exited the store and were each separately accosted by a young dirty child demanding either candy or money. I said 'Please, go away' and a man took the child away. But he apparently had attached himself to Spencer who then tried to run away. Oh, it seemed funny, but it's pathetic really.
The other sad part of that trip was seeing all of the dirty, sickly kitties roaming the streets. A peachy one, with squinty infected eyes was cowering painfully over it's liquid bowel movements. I almost vomited. Then I thought of Winston. That turd. Man, am I ever happy he's got a great home, and that when I get home, I get him back.
We paid for a tour run by a young man named Harris. He picked us up in a van, and about 9 of us were taken around the city. He told us about the war, and his experiences growing up in it. He was very passionate about what a war should and shouldn't be. He was about 5, so I'm assuming he never had the chance to start school. Whatever schooling he did have ended at 15 when he opened his own hostel, and now he's running tours as well. He's only 21.
We went to the tunnel museum. The tunnel was used by soldiers and civilians during the siege. It was 800m long and about 5'tall. He took us to the Olympic Bobsled. We were allowed to run on it, but not in the forest behind it. The Serbians used it as a defense shield as they attacked the city. He took us to a traditional Muslim home from the ...17th century, or maybe a bit earlier. The women got shafted that's for sure. But what else is new? He also took us out for Chevapi. It's ground beef seasoned and served in a pita with onions and cream cheese. Another vegetarian and I split it. It was actually really good! That is the reason there are no McDonalds in Bosnia and Herzegovina. We also saw the bridge where Ferdinand was shot on the eve of WWI.
Despite their lack of SPCA, and the fact that I can't go for trail walks in their beautiful forests, Bosnia is an incredible country. It will be amazing once they become less known for their war, and more known for their culture.(Something Harris strongly advocates) It was interesting how many other people's parents were saying ´Be careful in Bosnia' or 'Oh my god, why are you there?' That place felt safer to travel in than, say, Vienna. And they're drinking water was so amazing.
Saturday, November 15, 2008
Old Towns and Old Bridges
The traditional Bosnian Coffee is served over at least half an hour. It's an espresso sized cup that one is meant to sip, not guzzle in the North American Tradition. Coffee is the time to deliberate with family or friends, spread gossip, and discuss things. I think they even have this kind of Coffee Time allotted into their work day.
The host will give each person a bit of coffee foam along with their coffee. If you don't get foam, you aren't liked. Each person takes a wonky shaped cup of sugar. You then dip a corner of the cube into the coffee, bite it, and hold in your teeth while you noisily slurp coffee through it, sighing with satisfaction at the end of it.
After our day in Mostar, our host prepared a Traditional coffee for everyone staying in the flat. And then she gave us a jug of beer. It was a good end to an interesting day.
During the day we went to a local cake shop. It was recommended by Majda (Maida). We were the only foreigners in the shop and we stuck out like sore thumbs. I've never had a more awkward cake purchasing experience. The boys had seconds (which I don't know how because it's almost painfully filling)and everyone in the cafe watched and grinned as they pointed out their desired pieces, giggling at our strange ways.
We also walked into the quaintest of quaint old towns. The buildings are mostly made of a polished wood set on pebble-like cobblestone. We went into a Mausoleum and walked up the tower for a great view of the city. We also went into their history museum which showed a few articles of the old life, and a film about the bombing of their town bridge and its reconstruction. The leader who bombed their bridge is now on trial in the Hague I think. The bridge itself was the historical and cultural defining point of the city. It's incredibly old, and used by everyone to dive off into the river. If you go in the summer you can try jumping too. After it was rebuilt, it was celebrated by having the towns people jump off holding flare candles.
We went out for the cheapest fancy lunch ever. I had two whole trout fish that had been fried, with spinach and boiled potatoes for about 14 dollars. Spencer fed parts of his meal to stray kittens and wondered why, after having been fed, they wouldn't go away.
The town is a bit of disaster, with about 50% of the buildings have some very visible damage, or being completely destroyed. Our flat was covered in bullet holes. BUT, the people themselves are lovely. They are warm and welcoming and have great senses of humour. The drinking water is the best I've ever had. And the pastries are terribly, wonderfully sweet. I just don't go walking in the forest.
The host will give each person a bit of coffee foam along with their coffee. If you don't get foam, you aren't liked. Each person takes a wonky shaped cup of sugar. You then dip a corner of the cube into the coffee, bite it, and hold in your teeth while you noisily slurp coffee through it, sighing with satisfaction at the end of it.
After our day in Mostar, our host prepared a Traditional coffee for everyone staying in the flat. And then she gave us a jug of beer. It was a good end to an interesting day.
During the day we went to a local cake shop. It was recommended by Majda (Maida). We were the only foreigners in the shop and we stuck out like sore thumbs. I've never had a more awkward cake purchasing experience. The boys had seconds (which I don't know how because it's almost painfully filling)and everyone in the cafe watched and grinned as they pointed out their desired pieces, giggling at our strange ways.
We also walked into the quaintest of quaint old towns. The buildings are mostly made of a polished wood set on pebble-like cobblestone. We went into a Mausoleum and walked up the tower for a great view of the city. We also went into their history museum which showed a few articles of the old life, and a film about the bombing of their town bridge and its reconstruction. The leader who bombed their bridge is now on trial in the Hague I think. The bridge itself was the historical and cultural defining point of the city. It's incredibly old, and used by everyone to dive off into the river. If you go in the summer you can try jumping too. After it was rebuilt, it was celebrated by having the towns people jump off holding flare candles.
We went out for the cheapest fancy lunch ever. I had two whole trout fish that had been fried, with spinach and boiled potatoes for about 14 dollars. Spencer fed parts of his meal to stray kittens and wondered why, after having been fed, they wouldn't go away.
The town is a bit of disaster, with about 50% of the buildings have some very visible damage, or being completely destroyed. Our flat was covered in bullet holes. BUT, the people themselves are lovely. They are warm and welcoming and have great senses of humour. The drinking water is the best I've ever had. And the pastries are terribly, wonderfully sweet. I just don't go walking in the forest.
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Croatia
So, I haven't posted in awhile. There was never really a decent computer to do so, also not much exciting happened.
We arrived in Zagreb. The hostel was on the main square where there are always people (even at 6 in the morning when we go to catch our train) The hostel owner is apparently psychotic, but we only meet him once. We didn't do much that was exciting except walk to their grave yard. (Not that I'm implying the city was bad or boring) The graveyard was a neat look into their religion. There is a big wall for important rich families, and then the rest of it is giant and well maintained. IN the centre is a statue of Jesus surrounded by plastic containers of flame. Some of them were burning and it was stinky.
They also had a fabulous open market with veggies and honey, and down below was fresh pasta and pastries. Unfortunately, we didn't have a usable kitchen. There are a lot of shoe stores in Zagreb.
Next we went to split. That was the first exciting train ride we've had. As soon as we got off the train, it started to pour. And it poured for three solid days. I can't really tell you much about Split. BUT, our hostel had three turtles roaming around the backyard which was funny and a great source of entertainment.
We did get around to seeing Diocletian's palace...but it's just another tourist trap.
After being rained out, we moved on the Island and town of Hvar. We essentially got our own apartment, the weather cleared, and we were able to go swimming in the mediterranean. It was glorious! We extended our stay because the weather was so perfect. We dog who went swimming with us. We hiked up the hills to see a 12th Century fortress and get great views.
We also rented scooters. Holy Hannah, that is probably the coolest and scariest thing I've ever done. We rented them from some random guy with a sign for about 25 dollars (100cc for those of you who might care) and we drove those beasts around a small chunk of the island. I was dubbed a put-putting granny because I took my corners so slowly. It was just Spencer and I and not many cars at all the entire day. It was lovely. The scarriest part is when we drove through a tunnel that was about 1.5 km long, it wasn't finihsed, so just jagged rocks, and absolutely no lighting. All you could see was the teeny hole at the end of it. Also, it was only 1.5 metres wide and tall. We almost mutually had heart attacks. I swear to god there's a bogeyman in there somewhere.
The most beautiful thing we saw was an entirely abandoned village that a company is fixing up and preserving in order to sell. It's on the side of a mountain, with ver simple elegant church given the primo spot. It was glorious.
The ride home we took switch backs up and around the mountain. There are no guard rails around the uber tight corners, and the drop is frightening. But the view was worth it. Yes Mom, I wore a helmet, and I didn't exceed 40km an hour.
Anywho....that's pretty much it in a nutshell. It was very relaxing indeed.
We arrived in Zagreb. The hostel was on the main square where there are always people (even at 6 in the morning when we go to catch our train) The hostel owner is apparently psychotic, but we only meet him once. We didn't do much that was exciting except walk to their grave yard. (Not that I'm implying the city was bad or boring) The graveyard was a neat look into their religion. There is a big wall for important rich families, and then the rest of it is giant and well maintained. IN the centre is a statue of Jesus surrounded by plastic containers of flame. Some of them were burning and it was stinky.
They also had a fabulous open market with veggies and honey, and down below was fresh pasta and pastries. Unfortunately, we didn't have a usable kitchen. There are a lot of shoe stores in Zagreb.
Next we went to split. That was the first exciting train ride we've had. As soon as we got off the train, it started to pour. And it poured for three solid days. I can't really tell you much about Split. BUT, our hostel had three turtles roaming around the backyard which was funny and a great source of entertainment.
We did get around to seeing Diocletian's palace...but it's just another tourist trap.
After being rained out, we moved on the Island and town of Hvar. We essentially got our own apartment, the weather cleared, and we were able to go swimming in the mediterranean. It was glorious! We extended our stay because the weather was so perfect. We dog who went swimming with us. We hiked up the hills to see a 12th Century fortress and get great views.
We also rented scooters. Holy Hannah, that is probably the coolest and scariest thing I've ever done. We rented them from some random guy with a sign for about 25 dollars (100cc for those of you who might care) and we drove those beasts around a small chunk of the island. I was dubbed a put-putting granny because I took my corners so slowly. It was just Spencer and I and not many cars at all the entire day. It was lovely. The scarriest part is when we drove through a tunnel that was about 1.5 km long, it wasn't finihsed, so just jagged rocks, and absolutely no lighting. All you could see was the teeny hole at the end of it. Also, it was only 1.5 metres wide and tall. We almost mutually had heart attacks. I swear to god there's a bogeyman in there somewhere.
The most beautiful thing we saw was an entirely abandoned village that a company is fixing up and preserving in order to sell. It's on the side of a mountain, with ver simple elegant church given the primo spot. It was glorious.
The ride home we took switch backs up and around the mountain. There are no guard rails around the uber tight corners, and the drop is frightening. But the view was worth it. Yes Mom, I wore a helmet, and I didn't exceed 40km an hour.
Anywho....that's pretty much it in a nutshell. It was very relaxing indeed.
Getting into Bosnia
The greatest history lesson I ever had, was about 3 seconds long and two sentneces (one, if you use a semi colon)
We bought bus tickets for a 3 pm bus, 3 hours long from Split to Mostar. The bus mostly drove along swerving costal lines and Spencer and I were sure of our pending doom. Imminent death at every tight corner. The bus wound up into craggy mountains, through bald rocks, and random patches of evergreen forests.
It's hard to imagine how those remote towns subsist because there is no way a cube van could negotiate those roads to drop off supplies. They must do airlifts I swear.
Of course, I was a champ and got motion sickness about 30 minutes in, and the bus was about 45 minutes late (as IF it could have made it on schedual)The sights were beautiful, my stomach was wretched. The bus driver stopped every half hour or so to check something at the back of the bus (oh god!). We dipped into a valley, praying we were there, but we ended up winding back up into the mountains stopping where no real bus stop is marked, but people seem to get on anyway.
At the border crossing a cute friendly Croat police man checked our passports. And then at a teeny weeny booth in the middle of a road, was the Bosnian check in. The man boarded the bus, checked our passports and Spencer politely asked for a stamp. The man smiled and actually complied! I've heard it's the Serbian border which is going to be a slight hassle. Anyway, 10 minutes later, stamped we continue on. I praised the almight whatever there is when Mostar appeared out behind a mountain, and happily got off having successfully contained my lunch.
The lady who owns the hostel, Majda, picked us up. She told us to relax about paying her, that we can do it tomorrow when we have the time. She then ran to her car because a police van pulled up and she's illegally parked. SHe begged them not to give her a ticket. They told her since they too were illegally parked, they couldn't very well give her a ticket.
We were driving back to her flat down a non descript road. And she says 'This was the front line of the war; that was the primary school.' And we looked over and there is a shell of a building riddled with bullet holes.
And that was the best history lesson of my life.
We bought bus tickets for a 3 pm bus, 3 hours long from Split to Mostar. The bus mostly drove along swerving costal lines and Spencer and I were sure of our pending doom. Imminent death at every tight corner. The bus wound up into craggy mountains, through bald rocks, and random patches of evergreen forests.
It's hard to imagine how those remote towns subsist because there is no way a cube van could negotiate those roads to drop off supplies. They must do airlifts I swear.
Of course, I was a champ and got motion sickness about 30 minutes in, and the bus was about 45 minutes late (as IF it could have made it on schedual)The sights were beautiful, my stomach was wretched. The bus driver stopped every half hour or so to check something at the back of the bus (oh god!). We dipped into a valley, praying we were there, but we ended up winding back up into the mountains stopping where no real bus stop is marked, but people seem to get on anyway.
At the border crossing a cute friendly Croat police man checked our passports. And then at a teeny weeny booth in the middle of a road, was the Bosnian check in. The man boarded the bus, checked our passports and Spencer politely asked for a stamp. The man smiled and actually complied! I've heard it's the Serbian border which is going to be a slight hassle. Anyway, 10 minutes later, stamped we continue on. I praised the almight whatever there is when Mostar appeared out behind a mountain, and happily got off having successfully contained my lunch.
The lady who owns the hostel, Majda, picked us up. She told us to relax about paying her, that we can do it tomorrow when we have the time. She then ran to her car because a police van pulled up and she's illegally parked. SHe begged them not to give her a ticket. They told her since they too were illegally parked, they couldn't very well give her a ticket.
We were driving back to her flat down a non descript road. And she says 'This was the front line of the war; that was the primary school.' And we looked over and there is a shell of a building riddled with bullet holes.
And that was the best history lesson of my life.
Thursday, November 6, 2008
Budapest
There is a lot to write for Budapest. Therefore, I shall do so numerically.
1. The Rainbow. Budapest was the first truly good-looking city we'd seen. Every city has been flat, but Budapest has lovely foothills laced through and around the city. So 3 of us walked up to the castle hill in the pouring rain. All of the sudden, the rain lightened, and the sun began to shine and out popped the most beautiful rainbow ever. It framed the parliament buildings which is pretty much a gothic palace, and it framed the hills in the distance.
3. Szimpla. We met up with friends from Olomouc for a few glasses of wine at a bombed out building. I love how bombed out buildings are just incorporated into businesses. This bar had two levels with a really tight twisty stair case leading into the loft. There was also a table built into a gutted car. Wine was cheap at about 2 dollars a glass.
2. We went Halloween Shopping. Unfortunately All Saints Day meant the stores were closed the entire weekend and I couldn't rent my 1980s blue prom gown. I should have bought it, alas no room in my luggage. We met up with our Olomouc friends, and a few other people at a bar. It was literally 3 hostels converging for one crazy night. Spencer ran into one of his good hostel mates from Edinburgh. He recognized her through her Ninja mask. That was really really cool. The only downer about partying in Eastern Europe is they haven't outlawed smoking in bars. I've gotten used to the bliss that is the smoke free environment.
4. The Labyrinth. It was big, underground, stinky, old and slightly scary.
3. Meeting people. The next day people were too hung over to do anything so it was a write off. I finally convinced Spencer out of bed for a walk up the big hill. We decided to wait half an hour. And then we walked. The sunset was crazy gorgeous so we took so many pictures and made our way across the bridge. There we randomly saw Spencer's two ex-roommates from Edinburgh, very very good friends of ours. We ran to them because we were so excited. We were all in complete shock. We caught up about all of our adventures so far over a dinner.
4. The baths. We decided to meet Corey and Sarah (the flatmates) at the baths. The baths were a delight. They had about 18 different pools indoors and outdoors. And it was almost too warm for the outdoor baths. We spent about 4 hours there and it was bliss. In one pool, there was a current that pushed you around in a circle. One would that was childish, but a lot of adults were doing it!! There were steam rooms, saunas, medic baths....it was so relaxing. We ended that day at Szimpla.
5. The currency is forints - about 160 to the dollar. It makes hard math, and 10 000ft bills are scary. I paid for one beer with 10 000 and forgot to get the correct change. I only got change for 1000. When I ran back to the store the lady laughed at me. I guess there are stupid tourists everywhere. I must have done this often because I ended up missing 6000 by the end of the trip. ...Yikes.
mmm...that's about all.
1. The Rainbow. Budapest was the first truly good-looking city we'd seen. Every city has been flat, but Budapest has lovely foothills laced through and around the city. So 3 of us walked up to the castle hill in the pouring rain. All of the sudden, the rain lightened, and the sun began to shine and out popped the most beautiful rainbow ever. It framed the parliament buildings which is pretty much a gothic palace, and it framed the hills in the distance.
3. Szimpla. We met up with friends from Olomouc for a few glasses of wine at a bombed out building. I love how bombed out buildings are just incorporated into businesses. This bar had two levels with a really tight twisty stair case leading into the loft. There was also a table built into a gutted car. Wine was cheap at about 2 dollars a glass.
2. We went Halloween Shopping. Unfortunately All Saints Day meant the stores were closed the entire weekend and I couldn't rent my 1980s blue prom gown. I should have bought it, alas no room in my luggage. We met up with our Olomouc friends, and a few other people at a bar. It was literally 3 hostels converging for one crazy night. Spencer ran into one of his good hostel mates from Edinburgh. He recognized her through her Ninja mask. That was really really cool. The only downer about partying in Eastern Europe is they haven't outlawed smoking in bars. I've gotten used to the bliss that is the smoke free environment.
4. The Labyrinth. It was big, underground, stinky, old and slightly scary.
3. Meeting people. The next day people were too hung over to do anything so it was a write off. I finally convinced Spencer out of bed for a walk up the big hill. We decided to wait half an hour. And then we walked. The sunset was crazy gorgeous so we took so many pictures and made our way across the bridge. There we randomly saw Spencer's two ex-roommates from Edinburgh, very very good friends of ours. We ran to them because we were so excited. We were all in complete shock. We caught up about all of our adventures so far over a dinner.
4. The baths. We decided to meet Corey and Sarah (the flatmates) at the baths. The baths were a delight. They had about 18 different pools indoors and outdoors. And it was almost too warm for the outdoor baths. We spent about 4 hours there and it was bliss. In one pool, there was a current that pushed you around in a circle. One would that was childish, but a lot of adults were doing it!! There were steam rooms, saunas, medic baths....it was so relaxing. We ended that day at Szimpla.
5. The currency is forints - about 160 to the dollar. It makes hard math, and 10 000ft bills are scary. I paid for one beer with 10 000 and forgot to get the correct change. I only got change for 1000. When I ran back to the store the lady laughed at me. I guess there are stupid tourists everywhere. I must have done this often because I ended up missing 6000 by the end of the trip. ...Yikes.
mmm...that's about all.
Saturday, November 1, 2008
Vienna
We were only in Vienna for two days. It was delightful, but boring. The issue is not with the city, but with our lack of time. To become acquainted with cities you need SO .Much.Time. It was a few days lacking in heart to be sure.
The other issue is that we were staying in a hostel that resembled a hotel. We had our own private ensuite room which was great, but it also meant we didn't get to talk to anyone else.
The first day we walked around the old town (as usual for awhile) and Spencer and I came to two very obvious conclusions:
1. We are sick of old towns and the stereotypical culture imbued in it.
2. We are sick of capital cities, their pomp and blah.
I have been collecting, along the way, brochures for hostels in remote mountain areas, or smaller undiscovered towns. They're going in my wish box, with all of my other innumerable travel plans.
But to remedy this issue immediately, we've scrapped our travel itinerary for the time being. We're heading from Budapest (where we are currently) to Croatia for a lovely long time, and then to Sarajevo via smaller mountain towns and then to Belgrade where I fly out to meet Erin.
Anywho. Our first day we were bored within a couple of hours, so we took a tour of the Austrian Parliament buildings. They were really lovely, especially their two formal debating/deliberation/bill passing rooms. Very Greek. On our way out, we were pinned against the wall by security because the former prime minister of Iran was passing. He was short, and had a very kind face. That was exhilerating!
The next day we walked around a bit more. That night Spencer and I purchased tickets to the Vienna Opera House. Oddly enough, we were watching a ballet.
Before it started we milled about outside and ran into a Kurdish protest that was loud, well attended, and swimming in police security.
At the opera, we had the shittiest seats ever. So we moved after the first act, into the 21 euro seats. The ballet (Mayerling) was good, but the building it was in was stunning. Everyone was dressed to the nines (which made me feel like a poor traveler). If I lived there, I would buy season tickets, and nice dresses and take myself out, just to feel amazing walking up the red carpet on the marble staircases. That would be just perfect I think.
The other issue is that we were staying in a hostel that resembled a hotel. We had our own private ensuite room which was great, but it also meant we didn't get to talk to anyone else.
The first day we walked around the old town (as usual for awhile) and Spencer and I came to two very obvious conclusions:
1. We are sick of old towns and the stereotypical culture imbued in it.
2. We are sick of capital cities, their pomp and blah.
I have been collecting, along the way, brochures for hostels in remote mountain areas, or smaller undiscovered towns. They're going in my wish box, with all of my other innumerable travel plans.
But to remedy this issue immediately, we've scrapped our travel itinerary for the time being. We're heading from Budapest (where we are currently) to Croatia for a lovely long time, and then to Sarajevo via smaller mountain towns and then to Belgrade where I fly out to meet Erin.
Anywho. Our first day we were bored within a couple of hours, so we took a tour of the Austrian Parliament buildings. They were really lovely, especially their two formal debating/deliberation/bill passing rooms. Very Greek. On our way out, we were pinned against the wall by security because the former prime minister of Iran was passing. He was short, and had a very kind face. That was exhilerating!
The next day we walked around a bit more. That night Spencer and I purchased tickets to the Vienna Opera House. Oddly enough, we were watching a ballet.
Before it started we milled about outside and ran into a Kurdish protest that was loud, well attended, and swimming in police security.
At the opera, we had the shittiest seats ever. So we moved after the first act, into the 21 euro seats. The ballet (Mayerling) was good, but the building it was in was stunning. Everyone was dressed to the nines (which made me feel like a poor traveler). If I lived there, I would buy season tickets, and nice dresses and take myself out, just to feel amazing walking up the red carpet on the marble staircases. That would be just perfect I think.
Sunday, October 26, 2008
Olomouc
The capital of Moravia, aka the other side of the Czech Republic.
It was amazing. It's a town of about 100 000 people, though it feels like 50.
When we got to the hostel, which is owned by two expat Aussies, we were greeted with cups of tea, jolly giggles, and a detailed map of the very best things to do. The furthest thing away from our hostel was 15 minutes walking which is my favourite thing.
We went out for a wee walk around the town, and came back promptly at 5pm for home made chocolate cake -better than my secret recipe - and a custard pie. It was someones birthday. We were also served champagne. After that we went out with the birthday celebrators for an authentic Czech meal, which is actuallz pretty gross, and then some beers at the university pub. Becuase of the boiled dough balls, I didnt last long and promptly went to bed.
The next day we watched the astronomical clock. The communists rebuilt it, and lets just say, it's special in its own peculiar way. I have actually realized that I hype on the crappy communist architecture a lot. But they are terrible.
We wandered around for a bit, and then headed to the best tea shop ever. For about 7 dollars, I had a pot of the best tea Himalayan tea, some great hummous, and Sahlep..whatever that is.
Then - the highlight of the day - a visit to the Arch Diocese museum. Our party got yelled at no less than 10 times. I dread any further visits to any house of god.
I got yelled at because I tried to read a micro sign title of a painting which forced me to enter within 40cm of the proximity of the painting. We were perfectly respectful, but because of these torments Spencer and I decided the best retribution was to make out in the jewelry room. I'm only immature when duty calls.
Speaking of which, the Catholics are loaded. Those Jewels are gi-normous.
That night we went bowling. I broke 50 barely. We played with our adopted Australian Dave, and a couple from Boston.
The next day, as per the post above, we biked out to the pond where three of us stripped to our knickers and took a chilly dive in. After that - another visit to the beloved tea room and a trip to a national hockey game. This, by the way, costs 3 dollars. The opposing team was a bit like Italian Soccer Players in that they fell to the ice and cried like babies incessantly...to the point where the referees ignored them and a fight almost broke out.
During the first intermission, three tennis balls were thrown into the crowd. Clayton caught one and for some reason gave it to me. Next intermission, I had to go out on the ice with this two other boys and attempt to hit a puck into a little round hole. I missed, but I got a grab bag with a women's magazine, and this dvd for called Girls Want I 2. Essentially its soft porn for the 12 year olds. Many a giggle was had over that.
The night ended with the hostel occupants attacking the free clothing box and playing dress up. I will have to show pictures as no words will do justice to the debauchery.
Now we are off to Vienna. Im rather sad to leave this place.
It was amazing. It's a town of about 100 000 people, though it feels like 50.
When we got to the hostel, which is owned by two expat Aussies, we were greeted with cups of tea, jolly giggles, and a detailed map of the very best things to do. The furthest thing away from our hostel was 15 minutes walking which is my favourite thing.
We went out for a wee walk around the town, and came back promptly at 5pm for home made chocolate cake -better than my secret recipe - and a custard pie. It was someones birthday. We were also served champagne. After that we went out with the birthday celebrators for an authentic Czech meal, which is actuallz pretty gross, and then some beers at the university pub. Becuase of the boiled dough balls, I didnt last long and promptly went to bed.
The next day we watched the astronomical clock. The communists rebuilt it, and lets just say, it's special in its own peculiar way. I have actually realized that I hype on the crappy communist architecture a lot. But they are terrible.
We wandered around for a bit, and then headed to the best tea shop ever. For about 7 dollars, I had a pot of the best tea Himalayan tea, some great hummous, and Sahlep..whatever that is.
Then - the highlight of the day - a visit to the Arch Diocese museum. Our party got yelled at no less than 10 times. I dread any further visits to any house of god.
I got yelled at because I tried to read a micro sign title of a painting which forced me to enter within 40cm of the proximity of the painting. We were perfectly respectful, but because of these torments Spencer and I decided the best retribution was to make out in the jewelry room. I'm only immature when duty calls.
Speaking of which, the Catholics are loaded. Those Jewels are gi-normous.
That night we went bowling. I broke 50 barely. We played with our adopted Australian Dave, and a couple from Boston.
The next day, as per the post above, we biked out to the pond where three of us stripped to our knickers and took a chilly dive in. After that - another visit to the beloved tea room and a trip to a national hockey game. This, by the way, costs 3 dollars. The opposing team was a bit like Italian Soccer Players in that they fell to the ice and cried like babies incessantly...to the point where the referees ignored them and a fight almost broke out.
During the first intermission, three tennis balls were thrown into the crowd. Clayton caught one and for some reason gave it to me. Next intermission, I had to go out on the ice with this two other boys and attempt to hit a puck into a little round hole. I missed, but I got a grab bag with a women's magazine, and this dvd for called Girls Want I 2. Essentially its soft porn for the 12 year olds. Many a giggle was had over that.
The night ended with the hostel occupants attacking the free clothing box and playing dress up. I will have to show pictures as no words will do justice to the debauchery.
Now we are off to Vienna. Im rather sad to leave this place.
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
Prague
If you have many ten dollar bills, and you have nothing to do, you can find some tourist attraction to ease your mind. Entertainment comes in 10s. Of course, finding the native population of this city is virtually impossible....which is why I've spent about 10 dollars a day.
Prague has been interesting. I have no idea what normal people do here on the average day, I don't know how they manage to eat out. I've seen about two modern buildings, and they only draw us foreigners. Where are all the usual people?
In any case, there are a lot of really intersting old buildings here. Gothic, Rococo, Art Nouveau....whatever else. Cubism. Prague is supposed to be the master, or the home of all emerging art forms. The hub. I wish there was a present day tour; there must be a reason , apart from cheap liquor, that the Prague Quadrennial is held here.
The landscape is beautiful, the fall colours were also quite lovely. Since we keep heading south, we keep hitting each city in the peek of it's autumness. This is a dream come true for me!
We had two very interesting days. One day we took a train to Kutna Hora to see the bone chapel -as in, people made flower pots and chandeliers out of excess plague victims remains. It's pretty neat, and I swear to god it smelled unnatural in there. But the church was in the UGLIEST small town ever. It was like visiting a town twice the size of Alvinston for some weirdo relic.
Then yesterday, Spencer and I snuck out of the hostel to have an alone day. We went to the northern part of the city (where no tourist deigns to go!) and we visited the zoo. My first zoo ever! (I think?) It was amazing. Prague's zoo ranks 7th in the world. THe cages were clean, the animals looked happy, and the did have a fair amount of space. However, without a struggle to survive, can you really call them happy animals? They just kind of sit there and get stared at. It's amazing to be sure, but they don't seem very much like animals, just house hold pets.
I saw an elephant (my favourite) and some giraffs, fishing cats and spider monkeys. The saddest lot though, were the gorillas. They were quite content, and they had the biggest jungle to play with. Three of them were dozing, and a wee one was annoying them to play. The bigger gorillas were dozing and pushing him away or rubbing his head to quell him. It was so saddly human. I wish I could have seen them in the wild.
The last day we were all supposed to have alone time. I planned, again, to go see the old synagogues. Unfortunately, it was another holiday.... and everyone elses plans fell through too. The tram museum was closed for Spencer, the Sex Machine was too expensive for Scott, and apparently it was too cold to go paddle boating, since they were closed. Then we ordered pizza, and it was horrible. Worst last day in the city ever.
I have finished this post in a wee gem of a town called Olomouc. O-lo-moats.
Today, we biked over to this giant pond, very reminiscent of Campbells Park, but with less hills and no maple syrup. We found a swinging rope that dropped one deep into the lake. So of course, I jumped in. It was really chilly, and the bike ride home very wet. But Dave , a random Australian we have adopted, and Clayton both followed suit. It was great. Im off to a hockey game now.
Prague has been interesting. I have no idea what normal people do here on the average day, I don't know how they manage to eat out. I've seen about two modern buildings, and they only draw us foreigners. Where are all the usual people?
In any case, there are a lot of really intersting old buildings here. Gothic, Rococo, Art Nouveau....whatever else. Cubism. Prague is supposed to be the master, or the home of all emerging art forms. The hub. I wish there was a present day tour; there must be a reason , apart from cheap liquor, that the Prague Quadrennial is held here.
The landscape is beautiful, the fall colours were also quite lovely. Since we keep heading south, we keep hitting each city in the peek of it's autumness. This is a dream come true for me!
We had two very interesting days. One day we took a train to Kutna Hora to see the bone chapel -as in, people made flower pots and chandeliers out of excess plague victims remains. It's pretty neat, and I swear to god it smelled unnatural in there. But the church was in the UGLIEST small town ever. It was like visiting a town twice the size of Alvinston for some weirdo relic.
Then yesterday, Spencer and I snuck out of the hostel to have an alone day. We went to the northern part of the city (where no tourist deigns to go!) and we visited the zoo. My first zoo ever! (I think?) It was amazing. Prague's zoo ranks 7th in the world. THe cages were clean, the animals looked happy, and the did have a fair amount of space. However, without a struggle to survive, can you really call them happy animals? They just kind of sit there and get stared at. It's amazing to be sure, but they don't seem very much like animals, just house hold pets.
I saw an elephant (my favourite) and some giraffs, fishing cats and spider monkeys. The saddest lot though, were the gorillas. They were quite content, and they had the biggest jungle to play with. Three of them were dozing, and a wee one was annoying them to play. The bigger gorillas were dozing and pushing him away or rubbing his head to quell him. It was so saddly human. I wish I could have seen them in the wild.
The last day we were all supposed to have alone time. I planned, again, to go see the old synagogues. Unfortunately, it was another holiday.... and everyone elses plans fell through too. The tram museum was closed for Spencer, the Sex Machine was too expensive for Scott, and apparently it was too cold to go paddle boating, since they were closed. Then we ordered pizza, and it was horrible. Worst last day in the city ever.
I have finished this post in a wee gem of a town called Olomouc. O-lo-moats.
Today, we biked over to this giant pond, very reminiscent of Campbells Park, but with less hills and no maple syrup. We found a swinging rope that dropped one deep into the lake. So of course, I jumped in. It was really chilly, and the bike ride home very wet. But Dave , a random Australian we have adopted, and Clayton both followed suit. It was great. Im off to a hockey game now.
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Krakow and Auschwitz
The difference between Krakow and Warsaw in like the difference between black pointy spikes, and white fluffy clouds.
We've spent full days here in Krakow. The first day we did another free walking tour. The girl who did it was not perfectly fluent in English but she showed us the improtant bits, and at least we know what they are.
She showed us the ancient city gates. The walls have been torn down and replaced by a circular forest. That was a lovely idea. I love it when green space takes precedence over office space. THe castle terrace is stunning. She also showed us the platform area where Jews were deported to Plasow, which is now a memorial of big empty chairs. She also showed us part of the old ghetto, a part of the wall which surrounded it, and Schidler's factory. (The only remaining original part is the gate....and it's located in a gross part of the city)
The houses surrounding the ghetto are decrepit, but still unique. Only necessity would ever make me live there....as in, if there are no houses left on earth.
I have no idea how I made this city a WWII stop. but the next day we all packed onto a bus to get to Auschwitz and Birkenau. That was horrifying. As soon as I got there I was nervous. We a 15 minute film, footage taken by Soviet Soldiers who liberated the camp. Then we had a guide take us through the camps. It was either that or buying a book to take us through.
I barely made it through the film. The guide was worse. The museum is built into old barrack blocks. One block is preserved as the barracks, another one houses maps and pictures taken by the SS, and several buildings hold the stolen objects held in Kanada. There were 20 tonnes of female human hair, rooms of the shoes, and children's shoes, luggage, brushes, pots and pans.
Then she showed us Block 11, where there is the death wall (people are lined up and shot), and the horrifying prison. She also took us into a surviving crematorium.
Auschwitz is almost pretty.... there are trees, the buildings are red brick, and the paths are made of cobblestones. ... I hated that. I wanted it to be ugly and horrible.
Then we took a bus over to Birkenau which is 2 or 3km away. Here most of the Barracks were wooden and torn down. All that remained is the chimney. The space was enormous and quiet. We made our way down past the train tracks to the bombed out gas chambers, and crematorium. We saw a pond which is still home to the ashes of thousands of murdered people.
You can see a village close by, and kids were biking past on the road. How do you live there? That is what I want to know? The reason the wooden barracks no longer survive is because returning polish families had to tear it down and use it to make their houses after the war.
That experience was horrible. I kept thinking of Eva, and how she lived here for a time. I felt so terrible for her.
Anyway, not to end this note on a Debbie DOwner moment, yesterday we had a free day. I went to a picture exhibit in the old Jewish District (which is where our hostel is) That night, 10 Polish workers who live here temporarily were drinking vodka. Somehow they managed to give me three...and I was applauded for not taking chasers. I'm sure if it weren't for the beer, I would have felt fine today. Alas I did not, and managed to leave the cozy hostel only once for supper (Pierogies) Those guys drank 4 bottles of vodka last night...and they went to work at 6 in the morning. WTF??? They drank me under the table.
As they've just arrived back from work, I'm getting winks and nods.
There is much more to say about Krakow, but I must pack! We live at 6 in the morning tomorrow!!!!
We've spent full days here in Krakow. The first day we did another free walking tour. The girl who did it was not perfectly fluent in English but she showed us the improtant bits, and at least we know what they are.
She showed us the ancient city gates. The walls have been torn down and replaced by a circular forest. That was a lovely idea. I love it when green space takes precedence over office space. THe castle terrace is stunning. She also showed us the platform area where Jews were deported to Plasow, which is now a memorial of big empty chairs. She also showed us part of the old ghetto, a part of the wall which surrounded it, and Schidler's factory. (The only remaining original part is the gate....and it's located in a gross part of the city)
The houses surrounding the ghetto are decrepit, but still unique. Only necessity would ever make me live there....as in, if there are no houses left on earth.
I have no idea how I made this city a WWII stop. but the next day we all packed onto a bus to get to Auschwitz and Birkenau. That was horrifying. As soon as I got there I was nervous. We a 15 minute film, footage taken by Soviet Soldiers who liberated the camp. Then we had a guide take us through the camps. It was either that or buying a book to take us through.
I barely made it through the film. The guide was worse. The museum is built into old barrack blocks. One block is preserved as the barracks, another one houses maps and pictures taken by the SS, and several buildings hold the stolen objects held in Kanada. There were 20 tonnes of female human hair, rooms of the shoes, and children's shoes, luggage, brushes, pots and pans.
Then she showed us Block 11, where there is the death wall (people are lined up and shot), and the horrifying prison. She also took us into a surviving crematorium.
Auschwitz is almost pretty.... there are trees, the buildings are red brick, and the paths are made of cobblestones. ... I hated that. I wanted it to be ugly and horrible.
Then we took a bus over to Birkenau which is 2 or 3km away. Here most of the Barracks were wooden and torn down. All that remained is the chimney. The space was enormous and quiet. We made our way down past the train tracks to the bombed out gas chambers, and crematorium. We saw a pond which is still home to the ashes of thousands of murdered people.
You can see a village close by, and kids were biking past on the road. How do you live there? That is what I want to know? The reason the wooden barracks no longer survive is because returning polish families had to tear it down and use it to make their houses after the war.
That experience was horrible. I kept thinking of Eva, and how she lived here for a time. I felt so terrible for her.
Anyway, not to end this note on a Debbie DOwner moment, yesterday we had a free day. I went to a picture exhibit in the old Jewish District (which is where our hostel is) That night, 10 Polish workers who live here temporarily were drinking vodka. Somehow they managed to give me three...and I was applauded for not taking chasers. I'm sure if it weren't for the beer, I would have felt fine today. Alas I did not, and managed to leave the cozy hostel only once for supper (Pierogies) Those guys drank 4 bottles of vodka last night...and they went to work at 6 in the morning. WTF??? They drank me under the table.
As they've just arrived back from work, I'm getting winks and nods.
There is much more to say about Krakow, but I must pack! We live at 6 in the morning tomorrow!!!!
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
It's Prounounced Varshava
So Warsaw was miserable. To be fair I was sick. But I was also quite bored. Speaking to other Polish people outside of that city, they say the people they know there love it. It must be some really REALLY underground culture that's hidden from us outsiders. Let's just say it's not tourist friendly.
Because everyone bombed the shit out of the city it was rebuilt. However, it was rebuilt during the time of communist rule. (Did you know that communist buildings are quite similar to Nazi buildings, except Nazi buildings are more aesthetically pleasing?)
The communists built large cement blocks, with sculptures of creepy looking working class folk everywhere. And by large I mean huge. Communist architecture, especially that built by Stalin makes you feel small. But not small like big trees make you feel small. I'm not in awe of the building, they're just scary.
There is a series of ugly underground malls. A lot of big buildings with not much in them are on the ground level, and the most useful stores are underneath...where the trolls live.
There is no major highway bypassing the city, so everyone has to drive through it. This makes the roads unnecessarily big. Like wise the sidewalks are huge for only a small number of people actually willing to walk. I must admit we took the trams a lot and *cough* didn't pay.
Really, the city has not a lot to offer tourists. But what it did have to offer was poorly signed, therefore difficult to find.
We did manage to find the geeky technology museum which is a throw back to the 50s. This museum essentially lined up 20 different vacuume cleaners from the 1900s to the 1950s. Because the signs are in Polish, the only thing any of us could learn was the aesthetic evolution. ...Lovely.
They also had iron smelting Dioramas. Awesome!
The coolest, and slightly saddest part of the museum was this really keen, well educated older lady who explained to us basic scientific experiements - like that ball thing where they keep hitting each other in a row. It's sad becuase she obviously has no one to talk to ever, and is clearly really intelligent. The museum was primitive, with mostly hand painted pictures, and hand written signs. I liked it. But that was actually the highlite of the trip.
We managed to find a bombed out bank which was part of the non Jewish uprising in 1944. That was really cool looking! We also walked through a the royal park and the old city. The old city was built in 1960-2000 becuase it no longer existed. It was pretty, but a very typical tourist trap.
On our last night there was a free charity concert going on, so we walked over to see that. We stayed for aout 10 singers (each singing two songs and went home)
.....and that's about it.
Happy we went, can't say I'd ever go again.
Because everyone bombed the shit out of the city it was rebuilt. However, it was rebuilt during the time of communist rule. (Did you know that communist buildings are quite similar to Nazi buildings, except Nazi buildings are more aesthetically pleasing?)
The communists built large cement blocks, with sculptures of creepy looking working class folk everywhere. And by large I mean huge. Communist architecture, especially that built by Stalin makes you feel small. But not small like big trees make you feel small. I'm not in awe of the building, they're just scary.
There is a series of ugly underground malls. A lot of big buildings with not much in them are on the ground level, and the most useful stores are underneath...where the trolls live.
There is no major highway bypassing the city, so everyone has to drive through it. This makes the roads unnecessarily big. Like wise the sidewalks are huge for only a small number of people actually willing to walk. I must admit we took the trams a lot and *cough* didn't pay.
Really, the city has not a lot to offer tourists. But what it did have to offer was poorly signed, therefore difficult to find.
We did manage to find the geeky technology museum which is a throw back to the 50s. This museum essentially lined up 20 different vacuume cleaners from the 1900s to the 1950s. Because the signs are in Polish, the only thing any of us could learn was the aesthetic evolution. ...Lovely.
They also had iron smelting Dioramas. Awesome!
The coolest, and slightly saddest part of the museum was this really keen, well educated older lady who explained to us basic scientific experiements - like that ball thing where they keep hitting each other in a row. It's sad becuase she obviously has no one to talk to ever, and is clearly really intelligent. The museum was primitive, with mostly hand painted pictures, and hand written signs. I liked it. But that was actually the highlite of the trip.
We managed to find a bombed out bank which was part of the non Jewish uprising in 1944. That was really cool looking! We also walked through a the royal park and the old city. The old city was built in 1960-2000 becuase it no longer existed. It was pretty, but a very typical tourist trap.
On our last night there was a free charity concert going on, so we walked over to see that. We stayed for aout 10 singers (each singing two songs and went home)
.....and that's about it.
Happy we went, can't say I'd ever go again.
Monday, October 13, 2008
Why I love Berlin
FINALLY!! A computer with free access, and a normal, happy keyboard.
I shall answer the above.
I love Berlin because:
1. It's an exciting city with a lot of developments, architecturally, and economically. This makes it a place for exciting opportunities. There are many contentious issues with these developments as well. How do you merge two cities, with two different identities, and two very different recent histories?
1a. Berlin is a great place to develop. It's built on a marsh, so you have to build out, not up which makes it a sprawling city, bigger than Paris. Becuase so many buildings were bombed, or are now in a dreilict state there are many places to be torn down and rebuilt. There are also places that need to be preserved. Who makes the call? There is a war been sentimentalism and capitalism.
2. Their independent art scene is amazing. There are hundreds of small caches where artists live, work, or decorate. The city is filled with graffiti. That in itself is a contentious issue. Even Banksy has graced a wall with his giant astronaut graffiti. (Google Bansky if you don't know who he is. He's unbelivable)
The artists themselves, and that scene is so well connected. It's what is lacking in Toronto. There is a real sense of a unified community there, and it's not hard to get into that community. That scene in Toronto is exclusive and snobby.
2a. Tachelese art garden. Tachelese means 'Speak Truth'. It was an old shopping centre from the early 1900s that got bombed out. After the wall came in, painters and sculpters came and squated in the building. They lived there, and used the space as a workshop. The building is covered in graffiti, and it houses not only workshops but a modern dance studio. (It would be a wicked place to see a dance show)
Of course, the capitalists want to tear it down for office space. Unfortunately, the building is on a plot of land too expensive for the city to buy.
2c. The city actually would have bought Tachelese. THey support them now, through a cheap rental contract (1 euro a month) and pay their electiricty and gas bills. Even though I'm overseas, I still know that Steven Harper is a douche bag, and that he's insulted all 'normal people' everywhere. Berlin supports the growth of culture, and helps to sustain what is already there.
3. The German language is beautiful. Their metro system is wholly navigable. When people don't understand you, they enjoy watching you mime what you want. They're so nice.
4. They pay homage to their errors. The 'Holocaust Memorial' or really 'The memorial for the Jews murdered' is a sign of penance. It is itself surrounded by arguments, but at least the citizens are thinking about. The monument is perfect for me. It invoked a feeling no sculpture that size has ever done. Whether or not the monument is effective is irrelevant though. The fact that they admitted a huge error, and gave an exorbitent amound of money and a valuable plot of land to remember it, is astounding.
5. They've come through so much. There is a chip on the city's shoulder, and they bear it really well. This city could be the only authentic emo kid I've ever met. And I love it for that.
So Berlin was amazing. The first day I had completely to myself. OUr hostels were in the heart of East Berlin, so the area is up and coming. Some buildings are disgusting, but other are lived in, and cozy. I walked down the East Gallery - the longest remaining part of the Berlin wall that has been muralled and graffitied. Then I walked over to see the Berliner Dom. This is a giant ostentatious cathedral. IN the basement is the crypt. I've never seen one before. Buried in the crypt are several prince and princesses of Germany. It's a weird feeling. I wouldn't want to be the night guard!
After that, I just sort of sauntered around the Gendarmarkt, and then back home. I always walk too far the first day.
Because we only had a short amount of time, the next day, my fellow travellers and I did a tour of the modern art scene. This tour wasn't about the history, but about the neighbourhoods and hidden gems. I loved it. This is where we saw the Tachelese, and other alley ways that lead to cool places. I saw a bombed out train station. Beside it was a place where you could rock climb, or skateboard, or come for a drink. It was built amongst the ruin, and it's a cheap place to have fun.
The next day we did another free tour. This one covered the history and architecture. The guide was supposed to take us out for hours, but instead it took us about 5. He was so smart, and had so much to say. I think I need to read more about this cold war business from a non-American perspective.
At one point, we were standing in this parking lot, surrounded by fancy communist housing blocks. (The luxurious ones) The guide told us, that we were standing over Hitler's Bunker, where he'd killed himself. The site is obviously unmarked so that neo-nazis can't have a shrine. The bunker has since been dismantled and covered up. But to not know where you are standing, and then to be told....is a really crazy feeling.
The best monument that I saw, was not the HOlocaust memorial, but the memorial for the thousands of books the Nazi-Students burned. On the site of the burnings, is a hole in the ground covered by a piece of glass. Inside are whitewashed book shelves. They're empty.
By it is a quote from a Jewish author, written in 1820. Roughtly translated it says: "Where they burn books, they also burn people."
The city didn't feel too touristy. There were definitely bits swamped by tourists, but they didn't overtake the city like they do in Edinburgh. I think the city has managed to keep its identity that way. So I managed to feel included, but not invasive. I like that.
Anyway. That's all I have to say about Berlin!
I shall answer the above.
I love Berlin because:
1. It's an exciting city with a lot of developments, architecturally, and economically. This makes it a place for exciting opportunities. There are many contentious issues with these developments as well. How do you merge two cities, with two different identities, and two very different recent histories?
1a. Berlin is a great place to develop. It's built on a marsh, so you have to build out, not up which makes it a sprawling city, bigger than Paris. Becuase so many buildings were bombed, or are now in a dreilict state there are many places to be torn down and rebuilt. There are also places that need to be preserved. Who makes the call? There is a war been sentimentalism and capitalism.
2. Their independent art scene is amazing. There are hundreds of small caches where artists live, work, or decorate. The city is filled with graffiti. That in itself is a contentious issue. Even Banksy has graced a wall with his giant astronaut graffiti. (Google Bansky if you don't know who he is. He's unbelivable)
The artists themselves, and that scene is so well connected. It's what is lacking in Toronto. There is a real sense of a unified community there, and it's not hard to get into that community. That scene in Toronto is exclusive and snobby.
2a. Tachelese art garden. Tachelese means 'Speak Truth'. It was an old shopping centre from the early 1900s that got bombed out. After the wall came in, painters and sculpters came and squated in the building. They lived there, and used the space as a workshop. The building is covered in graffiti, and it houses not only workshops but a modern dance studio. (It would be a wicked place to see a dance show)
Of course, the capitalists want to tear it down for office space. Unfortunately, the building is on a plot of land too expensive for the city to buy.
2c. The city actually would have bought Tachelese. THey support them now, through a cheap rental contract (1 euro a month) and pay their electiricty and gas bills. Even though I'm overseas, I still know that Steven Harper is a douche bag, and that he's insulted all 'normal people' everywhere. Berlin supports the growth of culture, and helps to sustain what is already there.
3. The German language is beautiful. Their metro system is wholly navigable. When people don't understand you, they enjoy watching you mime what you want. They're so nice.
4. They pay homage to their errors. The 'Holocaust Memorial' or really 'The memorial for the Jews murdered' is a sign of penance. It is itself surrounded by arguments, but at least the citizens are thinking about. The monument is perfect for me. It invoked a feeling no sculpture that size has ever done. Whether or not the monument is effective is irrelevant though. The fact that they admitted a huge error, and gave an exorbitent amound of money and a valuable plot of land to remember it, is astounding.
5. They've come through so much. There is a chip on the city's shoulder, and they bear it really well. This city could be the only authentic emo kid I've ever met. And I love it for that.
So Berlin was amazing. The first day I had completely to myself. OUr hostels were in the heart of East Berlin, so the area is up and coming. Some buildings are disgusting, but other are lived in, and cozy. I walked down the East Gallery - the longest remaining part of the Berlin wall that has been muralled and graffitied. Then I walked over to see the Berliner Dom. This is a giant ostentatious cathedral. IN the basement is the crypt. I've never seen one before. Buried in the crypt are several prince and princesses of Germany. It's a weird feeling. I wouldn't want to be the night guard!
After that, I just sort of sauntered around the Gendarmarkt, and then back home. I always walk too far the first day.
Because we only had a short amount of time, the next day, my fellow travellers and I did a tour of the modern art scene. This tour wasn't about the history, but about the neighbourhoods and hidden gems. I loved it. This is where we saw the Tachelese, and other alley ways that lead to cool places. I saw a bombed out train station. Beside it was a place where you could rock climb, or skateboard, or come for a drink. It was built amongst the ruin, and it's a cheap place to have fun.
The next day we did another free tour. This one covered the history and architecture. The guide was supposed to take us out for hours, but instead it took us about 5. He was so smart, and had so much to say. I think I need to read more about this cold war business from a non-American perspective.
At one point, we were standing in this parking lot, surrounded by fancy communist housing blocks. (The luxurious ones) The guide told us, that we were standing over Hitler's Bunker, where he'd killed himself. The site is obviously unmarked so that neo-nazis can't have a shrine. The bunker has since been dismantled and covered up. But to not know where you are standing, and then to be told....is a really crazy feeling.
The best monument that I saw, was not the HOlocaust memorial, but the memorial for the thousands of books the Nazi-Students burned. On the site of the burnings, is a hole in the ground covered by a piece of glass. Inside are whitewashed book shelves. They're empty.
By it is a quote from a Jewish author, written in 1820. Roughtly translated it says: "Where they burn books, they also burn people."
The city didn't feel too touristy. There were definitely bits swamped by tourists, but they didn't overtake the city like they do in Edinburgh. I think the city has managed to keep its identity that way. So I managed to feel included, but not invasive. I like that.
Anyway. That's all I have to say about Berlin!
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Its hard to find the internet, and keyboards that make sense.
The title is the reason I havent posted. I cant find the apostrophes. Please Mom, forgive me!
So. Amsterdam.
It was lovely, and something a bit more robust than quaint. My ye olde Dutch blood was tickled with delight upon arriving. Ive eaten many a pastry.
The first day I bought a year long pass to check out many museums for free. This came in quite handy. I saw Rembrandts old house, refurnished according to a list of his possessions. I also poked my head into the Dutch Resistance Museum. And by poked I mean I was in there for three hours. I was fascinated by a presentation of three very special ladies in the socialist resistance. Two of them survived, the other was captured and executed-murdered. Her name was Hannie.
The story was stunning, but Ill have to write it a better time. After that, I was pooped. For some reason, I always walk way too far on my first day in a city.
The next day we walked down the red light district, and visiting coffee shops. Thats all I have to say about that.
The lovely thing about Edinburgh, Amsterdam and Berlin is the access to free tours. Theyre three hours long, and they give you a rundown of the history, and very interesting facts about architecture and folklore.
The highlight of the trip, was obviously the Anne Frank Huis. It was almost a culmimnation, but not a closure, of everything that Ive read about her, by her. It was so wonderful. It such a peaceful, poingnant space. I think she has managed to invoke such a patriotism around her, so many people think about her and love her, that she may be unique in having found a certain kind of peace... more so than any of the other murdered people. I think that was most shocking. That it wasnt a panicked experience, or a stressful experience. Shes managed to leave a very distinct, youthful, joyous identity behind. So I think in her case especially...the Nazis were abysmal failures.
After the Anne Frank Museum I hit up the Vangogh Museum, the Foam Photography Museum and this random 17th C house with a church in the attic. What I love about Museum cards is that you arent guilted into staring at things you dont care about. You can go, and then you can leave without worries. Likewise, you can go again.
I have good hostel stories...specifically how we got roped into a Bible Discussion (they bribed us with free food and told us we were going to play a game)...but I wont elaborate incase we have some sensitive Betties reading this.
Then I took a stressful train ride to Berlin. The train ride. Well - that area of Europe is flat, so it reminded me of home, and I said -No wonder the Dutch settled in crummy old Alvinston - but they had windmills. So the original Dutch win.
The train ride was stressful when I had to make a connection, and all the directions were in German. I was told one platform, but it was changed to another. Luckily two older Berliner ladies took care of me. THEN, when the connection (1 hour late) finally arrived, this nasally lady would announce things for 10 minutes (seriously) in German and then say - We have reached Hannover. Goodbye. WTF??? (What The F#ck)
I arrived in the black night of Berlin. I scored a bus ticket through mime, and found my way to my hostel for a good nights sleep.
I LOVE Berlin.
And Ill tell you why later.
LOVE LOVE LOVE Berlin.
My internet time is up! Tomorrow Im off to Warsaw Poland. But the hostel has free internet.
Toodle oo!!!
So. Amsterdam.
It was lovely, and something a bit more robust than quaint. My ye olde Dutch blood was tickled with delight upon arriving. Ive eaten many a pastry.
The first day I bought a year long pass to check out many museums for free. This came in quite handy. I saw Rembrandts old house, refurnished according to a list of his possessions. I also poked my head into the Dutch Resistance Museum. And by poked I mean I was in there for three hours. I was fascinated by a presentation of three very special ladies in the socialist resistance. Two of them survived, the other was captured and executed-murdered. Her name was Hannie.
The story was stunning, but Ill have to write it a better time. After that, I was pooped. For some reason, I always walk way too far on my first day in a city.
The next day we walked down the red light district, and visiting coffee shops. Thats all I have to say about that.
The lovely thing about Edinburgh, Amsterdam and Berlin is the access to free tours. Theyre three hours long, and they give you a rundown of the history, and very interesting facts about architecture and folklore.
The highlight of the trip, was obviously the Anne Frank Huis. It was almost a culmimnation, but not a closure, of everything that Ive read about her, by her. It was so wonderful. It such a peaceful, poingnant space. I think she has managed to invoke such a patriotism around her, so many people think about her and love her, that she may be unique in having found a certain kind of peace... more so than any of the other murdered people. I think that was most shocking. That it wasnt a panicked experience, or a stressful experience. Shes managed to leave a very distinct, youthful, joyous identity behind. So I think in her case especially...the Nazis were abysmal failures.
After the Anne Frank Museum I hit up the Vangogh Museum, the Foam Photography Museum and this random 17th C house with a church in the attic. What I love about Museum cards is that you arent guilted into staring at things you dont care about. You can go, and then you can leave without worries. Likewise, you can go again.
I have good hostel stories...specifically how we got roped into a Bible Discussion (they bribed us with free food and told us we were going to play a game)...but I wont elaborate incase we have some sensitive Betties reading this.
Then I took a stressful train ride to Berlin. The train ride. Well - that area of Europe is flat, so it reminded me of home, and I said -No wonder the Dutch settled in crummy old Alvinston - but they had windmills. So the original Dutch win.
The train ride was stressful when I had to make a connection, and all the directions were in German. I was told one platform, but it was changed to another. Luckily two older Berliner ladies took care of me. THEN, when the connection (1 hour late) finally arrived, this nasally lady would announce things for 10 minutes (seriously) in German and then say - We have reached Hannover. Goodbye. WTF??? (What The F#ck)
I arrived in the black night of Berlin. I scored a bus ticket through mime, and found my way to my hostel for a good nights sleep.
I LOVE Berlin.
And Ill tell you why later.
LOVE LOVE LOVE Berlin.
My internet time is up! Tomorrow Im off to Warsaw Poland. But the hostel has free internet.
Toodle oo!!!
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Versailles, and Sociological Discussions.
If I were an uber trillionaire, I would buy Versailles.
Of all of the things I've ever seen (which really isn't that many at this point) this is by far my favourite. It was unbelievable. It was also nice to do it alone (unlike other things where having a partner would be nice)
I hopped on the train to Versailles and followed the crazy mob to the palace. It was such a relaxing change from yesterday - to be away from sounds of traffic. I got an audio guide and wandered from room to room. I think the audio guide made the visit. The British accents re-enacted conversations and witty quips so it was like watching any Hollywood movie. (...still no idea why they didn't get someone with a French accent to do it). Two parts of the palace were closed: The Opera, and the rooms for the ladies at court...both of which would have been great to see.
I think I managed to become so focussed on the lack of traffic, and there's enough space in the palace to be fully away from people that I became almost convinced that someone did actually live there. Generally when you look at things it's hard to imagine the actuality of someone living in that era, not questionning it.
They had a 'modern' artist exhibit some art in the rooms. I think I know several people who would have hated their visit being spoilt by his work. I didn't really care. THe giant red blow up lobster suspended in the kings bed chamber was hilarious. Jeff Koons was his name. I personally thought his art was ugly...but that's fine. Most of it mimicked balloon animals...unfortunately the design in palace entrance looked like an anus and five vaginas.... it was supposed to be a flower. No further comment needed
ANYWAY
THEN I went outside to the gardens. Oh my heavens! They're enormous!! I spent the entire afternoon walking around, in the individual gardens and along the canal. I made it the Grand Trianon and the Petit Trianon. It was really exciting to see the Petit because I've seen it in art books for so long. Unfortunately I didn't splurge and go in to see the Queen's chambers. I'm saving that for next time *whenever that might be*
The place was just magic.
Back in town, I went into the Louvre and strolled quickly along 2 floors. I think I was museumed out. I snapped a few shots - making use of the self timer to take pictures of myself making light of exhibits....my maturity level was quite high.
IN my hostel room (and this a swank hostel) I met 2 really cool people. A fashion deisgner in training named Candace who works in London (and is Canadian) and a Brazilian Rafael who is learning French here 'For the express purpose of watching French films without subtitles. We've had some really good chats.
Last night this American girl was staying in our room and this morning got up making as much noise as she possibly could. (I only said she was american because I gave all the other nationalities; I'm by no means commenting on her nationality making her annoying.)
Today has been alright. I walked to the Galleries LaFayette which was stupid becuase it's haute couture which is ALMOST affordabe. I found the most beautiful pair of Laboutins...or Louboutines.... alas I didn't buy them - OR the magenta fall coat. I consoled myself with an afternoon nap.
After I woke up, I took a stroll into the Latin district and found some more highly manicured, packed parks. I listened to some mediocre jazz. Then this guy started talking to me and we had a pretty decent conversation in French. I shot him down for a date. I took a walk to the giant pond with mini sail boats floating in it. I sat down and began to read.
This older guy came up to me and started talking about Sociology and how I should appreciate it. He also said i was 'Normal' becuase, for my age group, I was in a steady relationship and living with my 'fiancee'. (I may have lied about the status of my partner..clearly I'm not engaged). He also said it was 'normal that I as a female said my goal in life was NOT to find prince charming'.
I told him that the book he was referring to (because yes, he had a book in hand to prove it) was outdated, being written by an outmoded sociologist. (I took liberties in the archaic cover of his book, I don't know anything about sociology) I also stated that if he read Ayn Rand, sex and love was nothing more than a momentary animal instinct and that were I not getting married in three months, my goal would be to further my career and to earn as much money as possible so that I could read books in peace by my own pond.
All in French of Course.
Then I went for a walk.
I think today I could have used a travel buddy.
I am ever so excited to go home tomorrow!
Of all of the things I've ever seen (which really isn't that many at this point) this is by far my favourite. It was unbelievable. It was also nice to do it alone (unlike other things where having a partner would be nice)
I hopped on the train to Versailles and followed the crazy mob to the palace. It was such a relaxing change from yesterday - to be away from sounds of traffic. I got an audio guide and wandered from room to room. I think the audio guide made the visit. The British accents re-enacted conversations and witty quips so it was like watching any Hollywood movie. (...still no idea why they didn't get someone with a French accent to do it). Two parts of the palace were closed: The Opera, and the rooms for the ladies at court...both of which would have been great to see.
I think I managed to become so focussed on the lack of traffic, and there's enough space in the palace to be fully away from people that I became almost convinced that someone did actually live there. Generally when you look at things it's hard to imagine the actuality of someone living in that era, not questionning it.
They had a 'modern' artist exhibit some art in the rooms. I think I know several people who would have hated their visit being spoilt by his work. I didn't really care. THe giant red blow up lobster suspended in the kings bed chamber was hilarious. Jeff Koons was his name. I personally thought his art was ugly...but that's fine. Most of it mimicked balloon animals...unfortunately the design in palace entrance looked like an anus and five vaginas.... it was supposed to be a flower. No further comment needed
ANYWAY
THEN I went outside to the gardens. Oh my heavens! They're enormous!! I spent the entire afternoon walking around, in the individual gardens and along the canal. I made it the Grand Trianon and the Petit Trianon. It was really exciting to see the Petit because I've seen it in art books for so long. Unfortunately I didn't splurge and go in to see the Queen's chambers. I'm saving that for next time *whenever that might be*
The place was just magic.
Back in town, I went into the Louvre and strolled quickly along 2 floors. I think I was museumed out. I snapped a few shots - making use of the self timer to take pictures of myself making light of exhibits....my maturity level was quite high.
IN my hostel room (and this a swank hostel) I met 2 really cool people. A fashion deisgner in training named Candace who works in London (and is Canadian) and a Brazilian Rafael who is learning French here 'For the express purpose of watching French films without subtitles. We've had some really good chats.
Last night this American girl was staying in our room and this morning got up making as much noise as she possibly could. (I only said she was american because I gave all the other nationalities; I'm by no means commenting on her nationality making her annoying.)
Today has been alright. I walked to the Galleries LaFayette which was stupid becuase it's haute couture which is ALMOST affordabe. I found the most beautiful pair of Laboutins...or Louboutines.... alas I didn't buy them - OR the magenta fall coat. I consoled myself with an afternoon nap.
After I woke up, I took a stroll into the Latin district and found some more highly manicured, packed parks. I listened to some mediocre jazz. Then this guy started talking to me and we had a pretty decent conversation in French. I shot him down for a date. I took a walk to the giant pond with mini sail boats floating in it. I sat down and began to read.
This older guy came up to me and started talking about Sociology and how I should appreciate it. He also said i was 'Normal' becuase, for my age group, I was in a steady relationship and living with my 'fiancee'. (I may have lied about the status of my partner..clearly I'm not engaged). He also said it was 'normal that I as a female said my goal in life was NOT to find prince charming'.
I told him that the book he was referring to (because yes, he had a book in hand to prove it) was outdated, being written by an outmoded sociologist. (I took liberties in the archaic cover of his book, I don't know anything about sociology) I also stated that if he read Ayn Rand, sex and love was nothing more than a momentary animal instinct and that were I not getting married in three months, my goal would be to further my career and to earn as much money as possible so that I could read books in peace by my own pond.
All in French of Course.
Then I went for a walk.
I think today I could have used a travel buddy.
I am ever so excited to go home tomorrow!
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Sunshine!!
Today was fabulous.
I took the initiative of putting my map at the back of my bag and setting off in any direction I fancied. I found myself in an open market. A vendor gave me an apple since he couldn't be bothered weighing it.
Then I found myself close the Seine. I started heading towards Notre Dame, but got side tracked by a botanical garden. I saw some owls, and some large dinosaurs.
I have to admit for the majority of this day I just acknowleged the fact that I was looking at things, but after that my mind just kind of blanked. I think it's the winding down from work, and getting everything set up to leave. So I'm taking this opportunity not to think. It's a good state of being for the moment!
After the gardens I did make it into NOtre Dame. When I was 16 I was here, but I lost the roll of film with those pictures on it. IT was nice to get them back in a way. Wandering further I found myself in front of the Louvre. I'm going tomorrow when it's free! It's nice on the outside. Then I walked down the pedistrian walk way and rested by a still pond with really pretty sculptures. I didn't think of anything. All I felt was peaceful. It was perfect. Actually - I was thinking I needed to sit in the shade more often since it was boiling hot, wonderfully, impecably sunny and my nose was burning.
Hmm....then I walked down the Champs Elysee. It was noisey and crowded and even the sodas were over priced. That wasn't fun. So after taking a brief look at the Arc de Triomphe, I headed down smaller streets to the Eiffle tower. I popped into a really cute, reasonably priced cafe for a bite to eat, and then took a nap under the tower. It was a good nap. My legs were sore.
As soon as I woke up a group of young people were collecting signatures 'Pour re-introduire les loups dans le Boulange' .... or something to that effect. And I said 'Bien sur, j'aime les loups' and then they said 'les touristes son quand meme plus gentilles que les citoyens.' I have to say, everyone I've personally talked to has been wonderfully nice. HOwever, on the train ride into town, some of the natives got very VERY angry at the visiters with big bags...as though it was their fault the tram line was underserivced. At least I managed to escape their wrath because I only had a back pack!
Anyway- I eventually made my way back home for another nap. It was a 20km day for this young lady and she's quite tired! And burnt. I know I know....but I haven't been burnt all summer and I'm making up for lost time!
Tomorrow I'm going to Versailles, and then I'm hitting up the Louvre only because it's free. A bientot!!!
I took the initiative of putting my map at the back of my bag and setting off in any direction I fancied. I found myself in an open market. A vendor gave me an apple since he couldn't be bothered weighing it.
Then I found myself close the Seine. I started heading towards Notre Dame, but got side tracked by a botanical garden. I saw some owls, and some large dinosaurs.
I have to admit for the majority of this day I just acknowleged the fact that I was looking at things, but after that my mind just kind of blanked. I think it's the winding down from work, and getting everything set up to leave. So I'm taking this opportunity not to think. It's a good state of being for the moment!
After the gardens I did make it into NOtre Dame. When I was 16 I was here, but I lost the roll of film with those pictures on it. IT was nice to get them back in a way. Wandering further I found myself in front of the Louvre. I'm going tomorrow when it's free! It's nice on the outside. Then I walked down the pedistrian walk way and rested by a still pond with really pretty sculptures. I didn't think of anything. All I felt was peaceful. It was perfect. Actually - I was thinking I needed to sit in the shade more often since it was boiling hot, wonderfully, impecably sunny and my nose was burning.
Hmm....then I walked down the Champs Elysee. It was noisey and crowded and even the sodas were over priced. That wasn't fun. So after taking a brief look at the Arc de Triomphe, I headed down smaller streets to the Eiffle tower. I popped into a really cute, reasonably priced cafe for a bite to eat, and then took a nap under the tower. It was a good nap. My legs were sore.
As soon as I woke up a group of young people were collecting signatures 'Pour re-introduire les loups dans le Boulange' .... or something to that effect. And I said 'Bien sur, j'aime les loups' and then they said 'les touristes son quand meme plus gentilles que les citoyens.' I have to say, everyone I've personally talked to has been wonderfully nice. HOwever, on the train ride into town, some of the natives got very VERY angry at the visiters with big bags...as though it was their fault the tram line was underserivced. At least I managed to escape their wrath because I only had a back pack!
Anyway- I eventually made my way back home for another nap. It was a 20km day for this young lady and she's quite tired! And burnt. I know I know....but I haven't been burnt all summer and I'm making up for lost time!
Tomorrow I'm going to Versailles, and then I'm hitting up the Louvre only because it's free. A bientot!!!
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Paris
I have but a few moments and the craziest keyboard ever.
I am safe and sound in Paris. The plane ride was easy, forgetting the directions to the hostel wasnt so smart. But it is pretty nonetheless. Am off to explore!!
I am safe and sound in Paris. The plane ride was easy, forgetting the directions to the hostel wasnt so smart. But it is pretty nonetheless. Am off to explore!!
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
The Lake District
This post is delayed.
Pretend it's September 14 or 15th.
I've decided if Australia doesn't make my dreams come true that I will be returning to the Lake District to take on any task that I can find.
It was simply stunning. We hopped on the train from Edinburgh, and the further south we got, the prettier the landscape became. We got off in Oxenholme, and took a fifteen minute commuter train into the heart of the Lake District - to the town of Windermere. Windermere is the biggest lake, and the starting point for most adventures.
For two mildly stressed individuals, stepping off the train was utter bliss. We immediately went to the organic food store to pick up some dinner and began to the 2.5 mile trek to the Youth Hostel.
The Hostel is situated between the town of Windermere and the wee shire of Troutbeck (which constituted 6 houses, one being renovated). We dumped our stuff in the hostel (which, for being a youth hostel was curiously filled with over 40s) and we walked to Troutbeck. We walked down into a valley and crossed a few streams. Then Spencer fell into the water. ON our way home 3 or 4 bats kept the midges away.
Because talking about walks is boring I'll keep this short:
The next day I woke up early (....6am) and went for another walk. I managed to get very close to a couple of unsuspecting deer. Spencer met me for breakfast at 8. The night before, we'd decided on the path we wanted to take, so it was just a matter of starting out. That day Spencer and I walked via the public footpaths to the town of Ambleside.
In Ambelside, we stopped in a quaint Tea Shop run by an older lady (baking in the kitchen) while her husband served us our afternoon tea. He was wearing suspenders therefore I liked him quite a lot.
Then we took a boat back down the lake to Bowness:
When we arrived we walked back up to Windermere we took the footpath to the Orrest Head Look out point.
After that we did another hours worth of walking through about 15 sheep fields, climbing interesting stiles, and crossing through people's back yards. One family had set out a box of treats for travellers to purchase. After getting home, we bought a wonderful locally produced meal (Spencer had Steak pie, and I had a stuffed chicken breast). Followed by an apple and date dessert.
The hostel was not what they call a 'happening place' and I was in bed by 9:30.
Breakfast the next morning was a huge feast of back bacon, eggs, fruit, yogurt toast, beans delicious tea. We stored our backpacks at the greasy spoon next to the train station. We hopped on another boat to cross the lake. We took another path through forests and local farms (where I got a serious case of swamp foot in sheep dung) to Hill Top, Beatrix Potter's house. It was drizzly that day, so there aren't many pictures. We didn't actually go in Beatrix's house because you need to get a timed ticket, but we did hang around her gardens. It was ever so lovely.
On the walk back we stopped by a small shed which constituted the variety store. They had something called Kendal Mints - famous for their use in the 1960 expedition to the top of Mount Everest. They were essentially a solid block of sugar flavoured with mint. For a sugar fanatic, I was outdone in two bites. It hurt. It hurt my pride, and it hurt my teeth.
Then it was the train ride back home.
I think we walked close to 20 miles that weekend.
This must constitute the most boring post in blog history - but it was serene. And for the first time in a long time I felt cozy and relaxed.
Pretend it's September 14 or 15th.
I've decided if Australia doesn't make my dreams come true that I will be returning to the Lake District to take on any task that I can find.
It was simply stunning. We hopped on the train from Edinburgh, and the further south we got, the prettier the landscape became. We got off in Oxenholme, and took a fifteen minute commuter train into the heart of the Lake District - to the town of Windermere. Windermere is the biggest lake, and the starting point for most adventures.
For two mildly stressed individuals, stepping off the train was utter bliss. We immediately went to the organic food store to pick up some dinner and began to the 2.5 mile trek to the Youth Hostel.
The Hostel is situated between the town of Windermere and the wee shire of Troutbeck (which constituted 6 houses, one being renovated). We dumped our stuff in the hostel (which, for being a youth hostel was curiously filled with over 40s) and we walked to Troutbeck. We walked down into a valley and crossed a few streams. Then Spencer fell into the water. ON our way home 3 or 4 bats kept the midges away.
Because talking about walks is boring I'll keep this short:
The next day I woke up early (....6am) and went for another walk. I managed to get very close to a couple of unsuspecting deer. Spencer met me for breakfast at 8. The night before, we'd decided on the path we wanted to take, so it was just a matter of starting out. That day Spencer and I walked via the public footpaths to the town of Ambleside.
In Ambelside, we stopped in a quaint Tea Shop run by an older lady (baking in the kitchen) while her husband served us our afternoon tea. He was wearing suspenders therefore I liked him quite a lot.
Then we took a boat back down the lake to Bowness:
When we arrived we walked back up to Windermere we took the footpath to the Orrest Head Look out point.
After that we did another hours worth of walking through about 15 sheep fields, climbing interesting stiles, and crossing through people's back yards. One family had set out a box of treats for travellers to purchase. After getting home, we bought a wonderful locally produced meal (Spencer had Steak pie, and I had a stuffed chicken breast). Followed by an apple and date dessert.
The hostel was not what they call a 'happening place' and I was in bed by 9:30.
Breakfast the next morning was a huge feast of back bacon, eggs, fruit, yogurt toast, beans delicious tea. We stored our backpacks at the greasy spoon next to the train station. We hopped on another boat to cross the lake. We took another path through forests and local farms (where I got a serious case of swamp foot in sheep dung) to Hill Top, Beatrix Potter's house. It was drizzly that day, so there aren't many pictures. We didn't actually go in Beatrix's house because you need to get a timed ticket, but we did hang around her gardens. It was ever so lovely.
On the walk back we stopped by a small shed which constituted the variety store. They had something called Kendal Mints - famous for their use in the 1960 expedition to the top of Mount Everest. They were essentially a solid block of sugar flavoured with mint. For a sugar fanatic, I was outdone in two bites. It hurt. It hurt my pride, and it hurt my teeth.
Then it was the train ride back home.
I think we walked close to 20 miles that weekend.
This must constitute the most boring post in blog history - but it was serene. And for the first time in a long time I felt cozy and relaxed.
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