Sarajevo

I have a feeling that word was used many times in a Cranberries song.

Spencer has qualms with Sarajevo. It was rebuilt in a rather thoughtless way, almost haphazardly. It doesn't allow for efficient transportation, bicyclists and the buildings are clumsy. My argument is that in a nation with very limited funds, the fact that it has been more rebuilt than its counterpart Mostar is a feat in itself. Urban planners are either expensive, or those living in the Eastern Block have many different ideals.

I finished reading a book about woman who lived through the Communist regime, written by a journalist who survived it as well. She was saying they were given very limited supplies, few make up supplies, no provisions for menstruation, and shapeless clothing. So, when they had access to glamour magazines, they thought 'identity' was created through fashion. (If 700 women had the same dress, I'd agree). They would design clothes, or fix clothes to look 'Western' and when the iron curtain came down and they finally did buy clothes, it was with those ideals in mind. So never once did they have a chance to think about how they would want to dress without the communist gender neutral ideal, or the high fashion sex ideal. So they bought things that were exactly like Gucci. I would say the same thing happened when they could finally buy something that was not a Russian car. They all drive expensive cars here that guzzle gas, and it seems cities have been planned around that, not around a public transportation system.

Anyway. I spent the majority of my time in the Turkish quarter buying a few trinkets, spending oodles of money on Turkish Delight. (....about 2 dollars total) and baklava. The turkish delight there was unparalleled. I tried to save some for my sister, but I ate it.
When Spencer and I bought Turkish Delight once, we exited the store and were each separately accosted by a young dirty child demanding either candy or money. I said 'Please, go away' and a man took the child away. But he apparently had attached himself to Spencer who then tried to run away. Oh, it seemed funny, but it's pathetic really.

The other sad part of that trip was seeing all of the dirty, sickly kitties roaming the streets. A peachy one, with squinty infected eyes was cowering painfully over it's liquid bowel movements. I almost vomited. Then I thought of Winston. That turd. Man, am I ever happy he's got a great home, and that when I get home, I get him back.

We paid for a tour run by a young man named Harris. He picked us up in a van, and about 9 of us were taken around the city. He told us about the war, and his experiences growing up in it. He was very passionate about what a war should and shouldn't be. He was about 5, so I'm assuming he never had the chance to start school. Whatever schooling he did have ended at 15 when he opened his own hostel, and now he's running tours as well. He's only 21.
We went to the tunnel museum. The tunnel was used by soldiers and civilians during the siege. It was 800m long and about 5'tall. He took us to the Olympic Bobsled. We were allowed to run on it, but not in the forest behind it. The Serbians used it as a defense shield as they attacked the city. He took us to a traditional Muslim home from the ...17th century, or maybe a bit earlier. The women got shafted that's for sure. But what else is new? He also took us out for Chevapi. It's ground beef seasoned and served in a pita with onions and cream cheese. Another vegetarian and I split it. It was actually really good! That is the reason there are no McDonalds in Bosnia and Herzegovina. We also saw the bridge where Ferdinand was shot on the eve of WWI.

Despite their lack of SPCA, and the fact that I can't go for trail walks in their beautiful forests, Bosnia is an incredible country. It will be amazing once they become less known for their war, and more known for their culture.(Something Harris strongly advocates) It was interesting how many other people's parents were saying ´Be careful in Bosnia' or 'Oh my god, why are you there?' That place felt safer to travel in than, say, Vienna. And they're drinking water was so amazing.