I have a feeling that word was used many times in a Cranberries song.
Spencer has qualms with Sarajevo. It was rebuilt in a rather thoughtless way, almost haphazardly. It doesn't allow for efficient transportation, bicyclists and the buildings are clumsy. My argument is that in a nation with very limited funds, the fact that it has been more rebuilt than its counterpart Mostar is a feat in itself. Urban planners are either expensive, or those living in the Eastern Block have many different ideals.
I finished reading a book about woman who lived through the Communist regime, written by a journalist who survived it as well. She was saying they were given very limited supplies, few make up supplies, no provisions for menstruation, and shapeless clothing. So, when they had access to glamour magazines, they thought 'identity' was created through fashion. (If 700 women had the same dress, I'd agree). They would design clothes, or fix clothes to look 'Western' and when the iron curtain came down and they finally did buy clothes, it was with those ideals in mind. So never once did they have a chance to think about how they would want to dress without the communist gender neutral ideal, or the high fashion sex ideal. So they bought things that were exactly like Gucci. I would say the same thing happened when they could finally buy something that was not a Russian car. They all drive expensive cars here that guzzle gas, and it seems cities have been planned around that, not around a public transportation system.
Anyway. I spent the majority of my time in the Turkish quarter buying a few trinkets, spending oodles of money on Turkish Delight. (....about 2 dollars total) and baklava. The turkish delight there was unparalleled. I tried to save some for my sister, but I ate it.
When Spencer and I bought Turkish Delight once, we exited the store and were each separately accosted by a young dirty child demanding either candy or money. I said 'Please, go away' and a man took the child away. But he apparently had attached himself to Spencer who then tried to run away. Oh, it seemed funny, but it's pathetic really.
The other sad part of that trip was seeing all of the dirty, sickly kitties roaming the streets. A peachy one, with squinty infected eyes was cowering painfully over it's liquid bowel movements. I almost vomited. Then I thought of Winston. That turd. Man, am I ever happy he's got a great home, and that when I get home, I get him back.
We paid for a tour run by a young man named Harris. He picked us up in a van, and about 9 of us were taken around the city. He told us about the war, and his experiences growing up in it. He was very passionate about what a war should and shouldn't be. He was about 5, so I'm assuming he never had the chance to start school. Whatever schooling he did have ended at 15 when he opened his own hostel, and now he's running tours as well. He's only 21.
We went to the tunnel museum. The tunnel was used by soldiers and civilians during the siege. It was 800m long and about 5'tall. He took us to the Olympic Bobsled. We were allowed to run on it, but not in the forest behind it. The Serbians used it as a defense shield as they attacked the city. He took us to a traditional Muslim home from the ...17th century, or maybe a bit earlier. The women got shafted that's for sure. But what else is new? He also took us out for Chevapi. It's ground beef seasoned and served in a pita with onions and cream cheese. Another vegetarian and I split it. It was actually really good! That is the reason there are no McDonalds in Bosnia and Herzegovina. We also saw the bridge where Ferdinand was shot on the eve of WWI.
Despite their lack of SPCA, and the fact that I can't go for trail walks in their beautiful forests, Bosnia is an incredible country. It will be amazing once they become less known for their war, and more known for their culture.(Something Harris strongly advocates) It was interesting how many other people's parents were saying ´Be careful in Bosnia' or 'Oh my god, why are you there?' That place felt safer to travel in than, say, Vienna. And they're drinking water was so amazing.
Friday, November 21, 2008
Saturday, November 15, 2008
Old Towns and Old Bridges
The traditional Bosnian Coffee is served over at least half an hour. It's an espresso sized cup that one is meant to sip, not guzzle in the North American Tradition. Coffee is the time to deliberate with family or friends, spread gossip, and discuss things. I think they even have this kind of Coffee Time allotted into their work day.
The host will give each person a bit of coffee foam along with their coffee. If you don't get foam, you aren't liked. Each person takes a wonky shaped cup of sugar. You then dip a corner of the cube into the coffee, bite it, and hold in your teeth while you noisily slurp coffee through it, sighing with satisfaction at the end of it.
After our day in Mostar, our host prepared a Traditional coffee for everyone staying in the flat. And then she gave us a jug of beer. It was a good end to an interesting day.
During the day we went to a local cake shop. It was recommended by Majda (Maida). We were the only foreigners in the shop and we stuck out like sore thumbs. I've never had a more awkward cake purchasing experience. The boys had seconds (which I don't know how because it's almost painfully filling)and everyone in the cafe watched and grinned as they pointed out their desired pieces, giggling at our strange ways.
We also walked into the quaintest of quaint old towns. The buildings are mostly made of a polished wood set on pebble-like cobblestone. We went into a Mausoleum and walked up the tower for a great view of the city. We also went into their history museum which showed a few articles of the old life, and a film about the bombing of their town bridge and its reconstruction. The leader who bombed their bridge is now on trial in the Hague I think. The bridge itself was the historical and cultural defining point of the city. It's incredibly old, and used by everyone to dive off into the river. If you go in the summer you can try jumping too. After it was rebuilt, it was celebrated by having the towns people jump off holding flare candles.
We went out for the cheapest fancy lunch ever. I had two whole trout fish that had been fried, with spinach and boiled potatoes for about 14 dollars. Spencer fed parts of his meal to stray kittens and wondered why, after having been fed, they wouldn't go away.
The town is a bit of disaster, with about 50% of the buildings have some very visible damage, or being completely destroyed. Our flat was covered in bullet holes. BUT, the people themselves are lovely. They are warm and welcoming and have great senses of humour. The drinking water is the best I've ever had. And the pastries are terribly, wonderfully sweet. I just don't go walking in the forest.
The host will give each person a bit of coffee foam along with their coffee. If you don't get foam, you aren't liked. Each person takes a wonky shaped cup of sugar. You then dip a corner of the cube into the coffee, bite it, and hold in your teeth while you noisily slurp coffee through it, sighing with satisfaction at the end of it.
After our day in Mostar, our host prepared a Traditional coffee for everyone staying in the flat. And then she gave us a jug of beer. It was a good end to an interesting day.
During the day we went to a local cake shop. It was recommended by Majda (Maida). We were the only foreigners in the shop and we stuck out like sore thumbs. I've never had a more awkward cake purchasing experience. The boys had seconds (which I don't know how because it's almost painfully filling)and everyone in the cafe watched and grinned as they pointed out their desired pieces, giggling at our strange ways.
We also walked into the quaintest of quaint old towns. The buildings are mostly made of a polished wood set on pebble-like cobblestone. We went into a Mausoleum and walked up the tower for a great view of the city. We also went into their history museum which showed a few articles of the old life, and a film about the bombing of their town bridge and its reconstruction. The leader who bombed their bridge is now on trial in the Hague I think. The bridge itself was the historical and cultural defining point of the city. It's incredibly old, and used by everyone to dive off into the river. If you go in the summer you can try jumping too. After it was rebuilt, it was celebrated by having the towns people jump off holding flare candles.
We went out for the cheapest fancy lunch ever. I had two whole trout fish that had been fried, with spinach and boiled potatoes for about 14 dollars. Spencer fed parts of his meal to stray kittens and wondered why, after having been fed, they wouldn't go away.
The town is a bit of disaster, with about 50% of the buildings have some very visible damage, or being completely destroyed. Our flat was covered in bullet holes. BUT, the people themselves are lovely. They are warm and welcoming and have great senses of humour. The drinking water is the best I've ever had. And the pastries are terribly, wonderfully sweet. I just don't go walking in the forest.
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Croatia
So, I haven't posted in awhile. There was never really a decent computer to do so, also not much exciting happened.
We arrived in Zagreb. The hostel was on the main square where there are always people (even at 6 in the morning when we go to catch our train) The hostel owner is apparently psychotic, but we only meet him once. We didn't do much that was exciting except walk to their grave yard. (Not that I'm implying the city was bad or boring) The graveyard was a neat look into their religion. There is a big wall for important rich families, and then the rest of it is giant and well maintained. IN the centre is a statue of Jesus surrounded by plastic containers of flame. Some of them were burning and it was stinky.
They also had a fabulous open market with veggies and honey, and down below was fresh pasta and pastries. Unfortunately, we didn't have a usable kitchen. There are a lot of shoe stores in Zagreb.
Next we went to split. That was the first exciting train ride we've had. As soon as we got off the train, it started to pour. And it poured for three solid days. I can't really tell you much about Split. BUT, our hostel had three turtles roaming around the backyard which was funny and a great source of entertainment.
We did get around to seeing Diocletian's palace...but it's just another tourist trap.
After being rained out, we moved on the Island and town of Hvar. We essentially got our own apartment, the weather cleared, and we were able to go swimming in the mediterranean. It was glorious! We extended our stay because the weather was so perfect. We dog who went swimming with us. We hiked up the hills to see a 12th Century fortress and get great views.
We also rented scooters. Holy Hannah, that is probably the coolest and scariest thing I've ever done. We rented them from some random guy with a sign for about 25 dollars (100cc for those of you who might care) and we drove those beasts around a small chunk of the island. I was dubbed a put-putting granny because I took my corners so slowly. It was just Spencer and I and not many cars at all the entire day. It was lovely. The scarriest part is when we drove through a tunnel that was about 1.5 km long, it wasn't finihsed, so just jagged rocks, and absolutely no lighting. All you could see was the teeny hole at the end of it. Also, it was only 1.5 metres wide and tall. We almost mutually had heart attacks. I swear to god there's a bogeyman in there somewhere.
The most beautiful thing we saw was an entirely abandoned village that a company is fixing up and preserving in order to sell. It's on the side of a mountain, with ver simple elegant church given the primo spot. It was glorious.
The ride home we took switch backs up and around the mountain. There are no guard rails around the uber tight corners, and the drop is frightening. But the view was worth it. Yes Mom, I wore a helmet, and I didn't exceed 40km an hour.
Anywho....that's pretty much it in a nutshell. It was very relaxing indeed.
We arrived in Zagreb. The hostel was on the main square where there are always people (even at 6 in the morning when we go to catch our train) The hostel owner is apparently psychotic, but we only meet him once. We didn't do much that was exciting except walk to their grave yard. (Not that I'm implying the city was bad or boring) The graveyard was a neat look into their religion. There is a big wall for important rich families, and then the rest of it is giant and well maintained. IN the centre is a statue of Jesus surrounded by plastic containers of flame. Some of them were burning and it was stinky.
They also had a fabulous open market with veggies and honey, and down below was fresh pasta and pastries. Unfortunately, we didn't have a usable kitchen. There are a lot of shoe stores in Zagreb.
Next we went to split. That was the first exciting train ride we've had. As soon as we got off the train, it started to pour. And it poured for three solid days. I can't really tell you much about Split. BUT, our hostel had three turtles roaming around the backyard which was funny and a great source of entertainment.
We did get around to seeing Diocletian's palace...but it's just another tourist trap.
After being rained out, we moved on the Island and town of Hvar. We essentially got our own apartment, the weather cleared, and we were able to go swimming in the mediterranean. It was glorious! We extended our stay because the weather was so perfect. We dog who went swimming with us. We hiked up the hills to see a 12th Century fortress and get great views.
We also rented scooters. Holy Hannah, that is probably the coolest and scariest thing I've ever done. We rented them from some random guy with a sign for about 25 dollars (100cc for those of you who might care) and we drove those beasts around a small chunk of the island. I was dubbed a put-putting granny because I took my corners so slowly. It was just Spencer and I and not many cars at all the entire day. It was lovely. The scarriest part is when we drove through a tunnel that was about 1.5 km long, it wasn't finihsed, so just jagged rocks, and absolutely no lighting. All you could see was the teeny hole at the end of it. Also, it was only 1.5 metres wide and tall. We almost mutually had heart attacks. I swear to god there's a bogeyman in there somewhere.
The most beautiful thing we saw was an entirely abandoned village that a company is fixing up and preserving in order to sell. It's on the side of a mountain, with ver simple elegant church given the primo spot. It was glorious.
The ride home we took switch backs up and around the mountain. There are no guard rails around the uber tight corners, and the drop is frightening. But the view was worth it. Yes Mom, I wore a helmet, and I didn't exceed 40km an hour.
Anywho....that's pretty much it in a nutshell. It was very relaxing indeed.
Getting into Bosnia
The greatest history lesson I ever had, was about 3 seconds long and two sentneces (one, if you use a semi colon)
We bought bus tickets for a 3 pm bus, 3 hours long from Split to Mostar. The bus mostly drove along swerving costal lines and Spencer and I were sure of our pending doom. Imminent death at every tight corner. The bus wound up into craggy mountains, through bald rocks, and random patches of evergreen forests.
It's hard to imagine how those remote towns subsist because there is no way a cube van could negotiate those roads to drop off supplies. They must do airlifts I swear.
Of course, I was a champ and got motion sickness about 30 minutes in, and the bus was about 45 minutes late (as IF it could have made it on schedual)The sights were beautiful, my stomach was wretched. The bus driver stopped every half hour or so to check something at the back of the bus (oh god!). We dipped into a valley, praying we were there, but we ended up winding back up into the mountains stopping where no real bus stop is marked, but people seem to get on anyway.
At the border crossing a cute friendly Croat police man checked our passports. And then at a teeny weeny booth in the middle of a road, was the Bosnian check in. The man boarded the bus, checked our passports and Spencer politely asked for a stamp. The man smiled and actually complied! I've heard it's the Serbian border which is going to be a slight hassle. Anyway, 10 minutes later, stamped we continue on. I praised the almight whatever there is when Mostar appeared out behind a mountain, and happily got off having successfully contained my lunch.
The lady who owns the hostel, Majda, picked us up. She told us to relax about paying her, that we can do it tomorrow when we have the time. She then ran to her car because a police van pulled up and she's illegally parked. SHe begged them not to give her a ticket. They told her since they too were illegally parked, they couldn't very well give her a ticket.
We were driving back to her flat down a non descript road. And she says 'This was the front line of the war; that was the primary school.' And we looked over and there is a shell of a building riddled with bullet holes.
And that was the best history lesson of my life.
We bought bus tickets for a 3 pm bus, 3 hours long from Split to Mostar. The bus mostly drove along swerving costal lines and Spencer and I were sure of our pending doom. Imminent death at every tight corner. The bus wound up into craggy mountains, through bald rocks, and random patches of evergreen forests.
It's hard to imagine how those remote towns subsist because there is no way a cube van could negotiate those roads to drop off supplies. They must do airlifts I swear.
Of course, I was a champ and got motion sickness about 30 minutes in, and the bus was about 45 minutes late (as IF it could have made it on schedual)The sights were beautiful, my stomach was wretched. The bus driver stopped every half hour or so to check something at the back of the bus (oh god!). We dipped into a valley, praying we were there, but we ended up winding back up into the mountains stopping where no real bus stop is marked, but people seem to get on anyway.
At the border crossing a cute friendly Croat police man checked our passports. And then at a teeny weeny booth in the middle of a road, was the Bosnian check in. The man boarded the bus, checked our passports and Spencer politely asked for a stamp. The man smiled and actually complied! I've heard it's the Serbian border which is going to be a slight hassle. Anyway, 10 minutes later, stamped we continue on. I praised the almight whatever there is when Mostar appeared out behind a mountain, and happily got off having successfully contained my lunch.
The lady who owns the hostel, Majda, picked us up. She told us to relax about paying her, that we can do it tomorrow when we have the time. She then ran to her car because a police van pulled up and she's illegally parked. SHe begged them not to give her a ticket. They told her since they too were illegally parked, they couldn't very well give her a ticket.
We were driving back to her flat down a non descript road. And she says 'This was the front line of the war; that was the primary school.' And we looked over and there is a shell of a building riddled with bullet holes.
And that was the best history lesson of my life.
Thursday, November 6, 2008
Budapest
There is a lot to write for Budapest. Therefore, I shall do so numerically.
1. The Rainbow. Budapest was the first truly good-looking city we'd seen. Every city has been flat, but Budapest has lovely foothills laced through and around the city. So 3 of us walked up to the castle hill in the pouring rain. All of the sudden, the rain lightened, and the sun began to shine and out popped the most beautiful rainbow ever. It framed the parliament buildings which is pretty much a gothic palace, and it framed the hills in the distance.
3. Szimpla. We met up with friends from Olomouc for a few glasses of wine at a bombed out building. I love how bombed out buildings are just incorporated into businesses. This bar had two levels with a really tight twisty stair case leading into the loft. There was also a table built into a gutted car. Wine was cheap at about 2 dollars a glass.
2. We went Halloween Shopping. Unfortunately All Saints Day meant the stores were closed the entire weekend and I couldn't rent my 1980s blue prom gown. I should have bought it, alas no room in my luggage. We met up with our Olomouc friends, and a few other people at a bar. It was literally 3 hostels converging for one crazy night. Spencer ran into one of his good hostel mates from Edinburgh. He recognized her through her Ninja mask. That was really really cool. The only downer about partying in Eastern Europe is they haven't outlawed smoking in bars. I've gotten used to the bliss that is the smoke free environment.
4. The Labyrinth. It was big, underground, stinky, old and slightly scary.
3. Meeting people. The next day people were too hung over to do anything so it was a write off. I finally convinced Spencer out of bed for a walk up the big hill. We decided to wait half an hour. And then we walked. The sunset was crazy gorgeous so we took so many pictures and made our way across the bridge. There we randomly saw Spencer's two ex-roommates from Edinburgh, very very good friends of ours. We ran to them because we were so excited. We were all in complete shock. We caught up about all of our adventures so far over a dinner.
4. The baths. We decided to meet Corey and Sarah (the flatmates) at the baths. The baths were a delight. They had about 18 different pools indoors and outdoors. And it was almost too warm for the outdoor baths. We spent about 4 hours there and it was bliss. In one pool, there was a current that pushed you around in a circle. One would that was childish, but a lot of adults were doing it!! There were steam rooms, saunas, medic baths....it was so relaxing. We ended that day at Szimpla.
5. The currency is forints - about 160 to the dollar. It makes hard math, and 10 000ft bills are scary. I paid for one beer with 10 000 and forgot to get the correct change. I only got change for 1000. When I ran back to the store the lady laughed at me. I guess there are stupid tourists everywhere. I must have done this often because I ended up missing 6000 by the end of the trip. ...Yikes.
mmm...that's about all.
1. The Rainbow. Budapest was the first truly good-looking city we'd seen. Every city has been flat, but Budapest has lovely foothills laced through and around the city. So 3 of us walked up to the castle hill in the pouring rain. All of the sudden, the rain lightened, and the sun began to shine and out popped the most beautiful rainbow ever. It framed the parliament buildings which is pretty much a gothic palace, and it framed the hills in the distance.
3. Szimpla. We met up with friends from Olomouc for a few glasses of wine at a bombed out building. I love how bombed out buildings are just incorporated into businesses. This bar had two levels with a really tight twisty stair case leading into the loft. There was also a table built into a gutted car. Wine was cheap at about 2 dollars a glass.
2. We went Halloween Shopping. Unfortunately All Saints Day meant the stores were closed the entire weekend and I couldn't rent my 1980s blue prom gown. I should have bought it, alas no room in my luggage. We met up with our Olomouc friends, and a few other people at a bar. It was literally 3 hostels converging for one crazy night. Spencer ran into one of his good hostel mates from Edinburgh. He recognized her through her Ninja mask. That was really really cool. The only downer about partying in Eastern Europe is they haven't outlawed smoking in bars. I've gotten used to the bliss that is the smoke free environment.
4. The Labyrinth. It was big, underground, stinky, old and slightly scary.
3. Meeting people. The next day people were too hung over to do anything so it was a write off. I finally convinced Spencer out of bed for a walk up the big hill. We decided to wait half an hour. And then we walked. The sunset was crazy gorgeous so we took so many pictures and made our way across the bridge. There we randomly saw Spencer's two ex-roommates from Edinburgh, very very good friends of ours. We ran to them because we were so excited. We were all in complete shock. We caught up about all of our adventures so far over a dinner.
4. The baths. We decided to meet Corey and Sarah (the flatmates) at the baths. The baths were a delight. They had about 18 different pools indoors and outdoors. And it was almost too warm for the outdoor baths. We spent about 4 hours there and it was bliss. In one pool, there was a current that pushed you around in a circle. One would that was childish, but a lot of adults were doing it!! There were steam rooms, saunas, medic baths....it was so relaxing. We ended that day at Szimpla.
5. The currency is forints - about 160 to the dollar. It makes hard math, and 10 000ft bills are scary. I paid for one beer with 10 000 and forgot to get the correct change. I only got change for 1000. When I ran back to the store the lady laughed at me. I guess there are stupid tourists everywhere. I must have done this often because I ended up missing 6000 by the end of the trip. ...Yikes.
mmm...that's about all.
Saturday, November 1, 2008
Vienna
We were only in Vienna for two days. It was delightful, but boring. The issue is not with the city, but with our lack of time. To become acquainted with cities you need SO .Much.Time. It was a few days lacking in heart to be sure.
The other issue is that we were staying in a hostel that resembled a hotel. We had our own private ensuite room which was great, but it also meant we didn't get to talk to anyone else.
The first day we walked around the old town (as usual for awhile) and Spencer and I came to two very obvious conclusions:
1. We are sick of old towns and the stereotypical culture imbued in it.
2. We are sick of capital cities, their pomp and blah.
I have been collecting, along the way, brochures for hostels in remote mountain areas, or smaller undiscovered towns. They're going in my wish box, with all of my other innumerable travel plans.
But to remedy this issue immediately, we've scrapped our travel itinerary for the time being. We're heading from Budapest (where we are currently) to Croatia for a lovely long time, and then to Sarajevo via smaller mountain towns and then to Belgrade where I fly out to meet Erin.
Anywho. Our first day we were bored within a couple of hours, so we took a tour of the Austrian Parliament buildings. They were really lovely, especially their two formal debating/deliberation/bill passing rooms. Very Greek. On our way out, we were pinned against the wall by security because the former prime minister of Iran was passing. He was short, and had a very kind face. That was exhilerating!
The next day we walked around a bit more. That night Spencer and I purchased tickets to the Vienna Opera House. Oddly enough, we were watching a ballet.
Before it started we milled about outside and ran into a Kurdish protest that was loud, well attended, and swimming in police security.
At the opera, we had the shittiest seats ever. So we moved after the first act, into the 21 euro seats. The ballet (Mayerling) was good, but the building it was in was stunning. Everyone was dressed to the nines (which made me feel like a poor traveler). If I lived there, I would buy season tickets, and nice dresses and take myself out, just to feel amazing walking up the red carpet on the marble staircases. That would be just perfect I think.
The other issue is that we were staying in a hostel that resembled a hotel. We had our own private ensuite room which was great, but it also meant we didn't get to talk to anyone else.
The first day we walked around the old town (as usual for awhile) and Spencer and I came to two very obvious conclusions:
1. We are sick of old towns and the stereotypical culture imbued in it.
2. We are sick of capital cities, their pomp and blah.
I have been collecting, along the way, brochures for hostels in remote mountain areas, or smaller undiscovered towns. They're going in my wish box, with all of my other innumerable travel plans.
But to remedy this issue immediately, we've scrapped our travel itinerary for the time being. We're heading from Budapest (where we are currently) to Croatia for a lovely long time, and then to Sarajevo via smaller mountain towns and then to Belgrade where I fly out to meet Erin.
Anywho. Our first day we were bored within a couple of hours, so we took a tour of the Austrian Parliament buildings. They were really lovely, especially their two formal debating/deliberation/bill passing rooms. Very Greek. On our way out, we were pinned against the wall by security because the former prime minister of Iran was passing. He was short, and had a very kind face. That was exhilerating!
The next day we walked around a bit more. That night Spencer and I purchased tickets to the Vienna Opera House. Oddly enough, we were watching a ballet.
Before it started we milled about outside and ran into a Kurdish protest that was loud, well attended, and swimming in police security.
At the opera, we had the shittiest seats ever. So we moved after the first act, into the 21 euro seats. The ballet (Mayerling) was good, but the building it was in was stunning. Everyone was dressed to the nines (which made me feel like a poor traveler). If I lived there, I would buy season tickets, and nice dresses and take myself out, just to feel amazing walking up the red carpet on the marble staircases. That would be just perfect I think.
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